Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Beckey's Wall Area

"Elementary My Dear Watson" T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
3rd Crack Over T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Axis of Evil Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beckey's Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cheetah T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Date With Kate T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Date with Fate T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fingertrip Variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Fruit Loops T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Hesitate No More T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Hesitation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Needle's Eye Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Orange Sling, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pebbles and Bambam S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shaken Climber Syndrome S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Siesta T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Split Decision T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Split Fingers T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Split Pants T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Jane Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tarzan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tingey's Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tingey's Terror T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tingey's Torture T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Ron Weber, Ed Anderson 1960's
Page Views: 4,948 total, 36/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 30, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


50 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

A very exciting line up a vertical crack just right of the vertical portion of Beckey's Wall. Start on Beckey's, and step right and go right up thin flakes, small crimps, and exhillarating liebacks. This route is every bit as good as Beckey's.

Protection

3 pins on the route, slung tree at the top. Bring more in case there are none. Small to medium gear. Cams seemed useful for some of the early pieces. Not as runout as I thought it would be. Watch the pins, watch the flakes with your cams. They won't last forever.

Photos

KG
SLC, UT
  5.8
KG   SLC, UT
  5.8
I would NOT use the fixed pins on this route.

They are terrible looking and doubt they would hold a serious fall. I was able to get bomber pro in right next to both pins.

This route is a blast and would definitely not miss it if you're in the area. Oct 24, 2015
Brennan Crellin
Millcreek, UT
  5.8+
Brennan Crellin   Millcreek, UT  
  5.8+
This pitch was amazing. It was nice to send a more sustained pitch than what is typically found in LCC at this grade.

However, this pitch is NOT PG13. (Gear beta warning!) this is what I placed on the pitch:

1. at the point you leave the traditional Becky's dihedral (6-8' into the vertical section where the two flakes face each other) reach right and place a C4 #0.5 in the downward facing crack/flake.
2. after traversing 1-2', reach up and clip the fixed piton with a draw.
3. make the crux (I think) move from the undercling flake up to the higher flake. Place a 24" sling over the upward pointing flake/horn (set it as low on the horn as possible, because the flake is fairly thin).
4. climb right a couple feet and up several feet. from one of a few very good no-hands rest positions, place a nut (a couple size options), and/or a C4 #0.2 or a couple of C3 options.
5. climb the fingertips lieback and place as many C4 #0.2-0.75 cams as you can/want.


This ends up protecting the pitch every 5-7 feet, which to me, does NOT warrant PG13.

FYI, the second anchors on Becky's are exactly 40m from the deck, which means you can rappel from those anchors to the ground with an 80m. You can also rappel from the top of Pebbles and Bambam to those anchors (2nd anchors of Beckys). Apr 3, 2015
Woodson
Park City, Ut.
  5.8+ PG13
Woodson   Park City, Ut.
  5.8+ PG13
I think I counted two pins as of 10/10/14, although I may have missed one. Don't make the mistake of clipping the last pin short before the corner (like me), the rope drag easily adds a number grade. This is so good, I may get sucked over to this every time I head up Beckey's. If you're up for the grade, do it now! Oct 18, 2014
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.8+
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.8+
I'd always gotten on to this from the right (Split Pants) after leaving Beckey's corner but now there's a garden growing in the cracks probably due to all the rains this summer. It was the crux for me and I found traversing in from the left (Becky's) considerably easier. The two pins seemed solid enough and can be backed up with gear. There are no longer any slings around the trees at the top. Sep 19, 2014
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
I would like to add that some of the pins are shaky on the sporty section of the climb. The first pin can be backed up with a large stopper, and the last has a #1 camalot placement about 5 ft below it. This means if you blow the easy moves stepping into the lieback you're going to have a bad time. Jun 12, 2011
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.8+ PG13
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.8+ PG13
The upper piton is getting a bit wobbly. Not really a concern since it can be backed up with a .5 but it might come out soon with a bit of a tug. Pound it back in place if you pull it, it brings me great joy to clip these things.
And pull gently on the lower flakes, coming back down on the slab with a 200lbs section of the route would suck!

The tree anchor has not been replaced and the tree is in better shape than a lot of others I've rapped from. Oh well, it forces you to climb one of the slabs and do 3 raps if you only have 1 rope. There's an interesting new rap station halfway down pebbles in the dihedral, a huge choke slung with sections of what seems to be 12mm line. Funneh. May 11, 2009
The problem is that this kind of thing has become common practice like Craig said.

It is still adding bolts to a route that has never had them.

Just because some jack ass, back in the day bought a drill and added bolts to other routes does not make it okay.

Just my two cents
You guys do what you like. Oct 27, 2008
I agree that a bolted rap station is better than killing a tree. The current climbing ethic seems to lean more towards an "everyone get home safe" motto.
I understand the trad ethic of leave no trace and don't place bolts if you don't have to (I started climbing at Suicide and Tahquitz in California). But on these really popular, easily accessible, routes I have no beef at all with good, solid belay/rap anchors. Oct 25, 2008
And if you dont have a 70m then take two ropes.
After all this is LCC. Right??? Oct 25, 2008
Just rap of of the beckys anchors.

There was a convenience anchor added by the first bolt on pebbles by s000meone and after public outcry it was removed.

Why dont we just leave it the way it has been for years.


Less drilling more climbing!!!

One vote for fuck no!
Oct 23, 2008
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.8+
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.8+
Definitely one of the best at the Gate when done as one long pitch. Its not really run out but falling before getting a second piece after leaving the Becky could be a nasty one back onto the slab.

For descent, we belay the 2nd down (TRed) to the Beckey Routes chain anchors and then the leader downclimbs that easy 20' section on belay. Aug 2, 2007
glen kaplan
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
glen kaplan   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
I actually think this is better than Beckey's...
Awesome as one pitch, then do Bam Bam for a great 2 pitch...
Best to have 2 ropes, then at least you can rap from the top of Fingertip all the way to the ground...
I didn't really think it was PG13 either...maybe those first pieces ain't as good as I think they are--because of expanding--but the moves are actually really bomber, just big.
Great Line! Nov 4, 2006
Ryan Brough
Arvada, Colorado
  5.8+
Ryan Brough   Arvada, Colorado
  5.8+
Sews up nicely, I didn't think it was even PG-13. There is some weeping on the route after wet weather that makes for a headier lead. Bring lots of long runners to help reduce rope drag if you climb this in one pitch. Oct 10, 2006