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Routes in Five Fingers Area

Bitterfingers T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Chicken Chickenhead T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fat Man's Misery T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Five Fingers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hornet's Rest T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scumbag Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tenderloin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Waltz, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


A relatively easy area, with mainly trad routes. Some protect well, others don't. If you are looking for an alternate spot to climb when Schoolroom is busy, come here. The rock is a little dirtier then the rest of Gate.

Getting There

Approach as per Schoolroom, and continue east, along the trail which turns into a ledge system.

8 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Five Fingers Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hornet's Rest
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hornet's Rest
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
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Mark P Thomas
Mark P Thomas   Draper
This area has two main approaches, the first is to the ledge beneath what I'd call the Left Side of Five Fingers Area. The second is to the Center-Right side of Five Fingers, ending at a big ledge beneath Fat Man's Misery (which I will call Fat Man's Ledge here), which has a large pine tree on the right side.

Left Side Approach
The belay ledge is reached via a straightforward cl. 3-4 scramble up the first part of Stone the Crows, just beyond CallItWhatYouPlease. It is the steep gully filled with blocks and some trees.

You can also start it by first traversing low from the left side of Fat Man's Ledge (e.g. if you are working 5 Fingers area right-to-left). Do a broad step across to some fins & hand-sized jam and you're off! A belay might be nice for this traverse.

Center-Right Side Approach
This describes the approach to Fat Man's Ledge. You can set a gear anchor at the far left end here and it is the most convenient ledge in this area for sitting down & placing packs. The approach passes most other routes.

From beneath the scramble to the Left Side, continue walking along the base of the cliff. You will reach an exposed and improbable traverse across a cl. 3-4 mottled slab. Footholds are good, but a fall would be bad. Many people might appreciate a belay here. The best line is to scramble down low, and mostly traverse straight across and occasionally lower in order to have the best features.

You can continue straight up a dirty chimney groove and brush to reach the pine tree that marks the right edge of Fat Man's Ledge, or you can climb up & zig right to end up in the grooves beneath the Five Fingers Routes. From here you can continue right, or zag back left for a cleaner approach to the pine tree. A belay might be enjoyed on this section as well, although it isn't quite as exposed.

While the pine tree is a good landmark, it is awkward to hang out at and belay from, and seems best for belaying Scumbag Crack. For Fat Man's Misery, it may be nicer to belay from the gear anchor on Fat Man's Ledge, traverse right to start, and climb high before placing gear.

May 15, 2017

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