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> E Gate Buttress
Graying at the Routes
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | Brett and Stuart Ruckman, 1990 |
Page Views: | 1,487 total · 20/month |
Shared By: | Ben Ricketts on Jun 10, 2019 |
Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This is a really good route with climbing that’s continuously engaging and fun. The bolts are spaced far enough apart to get your attention but close enough that you call fall just about anywhere on the route and not get hurt. However, you do have to pay to play. The first bolt is 20+ feet up, but the climbing to the first bolt is relatively easy, maybe 5.9, with pretty good feet the whole way. Once you get the first bolt clipped, it’s game on with a ton of variety and fun movement. Side pulls, underclings, high steps, a small roof, the occasional jug, a really perplexing crux with a bolt at your hip. All in all, it’s a great route. This one should definitely see more action.
Location
It starts just uphill from one of the few flat spots at the base of the lower East Gate wall, about 100 yards uphill from Bloodline. There are 2 lines that start from this flat spot. Graying at the routes is the one on the right with bolts much closer than the one on the left. Look for nice patina face with the first bolt 20+ feet up.
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