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Routes in East Gate Buttress

Ankle Biters S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blood Drive T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bloodline T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Bloodsport T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cabeza de Pollo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Christopher of the Everglades T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Clay, Like Dirt S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
El Chollo T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
El Guapo T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
El Pipe Dream T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
El Segundo T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Flakes, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gran Hermano T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Keelhaul T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Narrow Horizons T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Negro Modelo T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Only Human Var. T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Plasma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Purple Horizons T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ripping Wall, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sidekick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sidewinder T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Snowflakes T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Speed Of Life T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Stradler T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
To Air is Human T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wild Things T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

East to south-east facing with loads of morning sun. Goes into the shade around 4pm. Not crowded, but it is visited. Rock can be kitty-gritty, but the traveled routes are clean and climb really well.

Getting There

Park at the Gate parking area. Skirt up, around, and east of the Gate buttress, following the steep and sometimes loose trail that generally stays right next to the cliff itself. Allow about 15 minutes for the approach.

27 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at East Gate Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 7
Sidekick
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Clay, Like Dirt
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 10
Only Human Var.
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 59
The Flakes
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 34
To Air is Human
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 9
El Chollo
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
The Ripping Wall
Trad 3 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
El Segundo
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 5
Gran Hermano
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 8
Christopher of the Everglades
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 8
Ankle Biters
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 5
Purple Horizons
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Narrow Horizons
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
 3
Speed Of Life
Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
 5
Bloodline
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sidekick
 7
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Clay, Like Dirt
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Only Human Var.
 10
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The Flakes
 59
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
To Air is Human
 34
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
El Chollo
 9
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
The Ripping Wall
 5
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 3 pitches
El Segundo
 7
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Gran Hermano
 5
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Christopher of the Everglades
 8
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Ankle Biters
 8
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Purple Horizons
 5
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Narrow Horizons
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Speed Of Life
 3
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R Trad
Bloodline
 5
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 Trad
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
This area is best approached from the Great White Icicle parking. Head west along the jeep road that heads toward the Black Peeler. There's a nice trail that skirts along the base of the Peeler, and leads right to the East Gate. Watch for snakes! Jan 29, 2013
Derek West Newman
Salt Lake City, Utah
Derek West Newman   Salt Lake City, Utah
The approach information on Mountain Project neglects to mention that the Upper East Gate routes (This Aint No Disco, To Air is Human, Only Human Variation, Under Fire, Trivial Pursuit, The Flakes, and Wild Things) have a ledge out left that you have to traverse. The traverse starts after a big ramp that starts near Graying at the Routes. Apr 1, 2015

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