Elevation: 6,421 ft
GPS: 40.574, -111.752 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 22,045 total · 163/month
Shared By: bheller on Nov 9, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Sorry, weather is currently unavailable.
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

East to south-east facing with loads of morning sun. Goes into the shade around 4pm. Not crowded, but it is visited. Rock can be kitty-gritty, but the traveled routes are clean and climb really well.

Getting There

Park at the Gate parking area. Skirt up, around, and east of the Gate buttress, following the steep and sometimes loose trail that generally stays right next to the cliff itself. Allow about 15 minutes for the approach.

27 Total Climbs

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Location: East Gate Buttress Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at East Gate Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 7
Sidekick
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 10
Only Human Var.
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Clay, Like Dirt
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 61
The Flakes
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 36
To Air is Human
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 9
El Chollo
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
The Ripping Wall
Trad 3 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
El Segundo
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 5
Gran Hermano
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 8
Christopher of the Everglades
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 5
El Pipe Dream
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 8
Ankle Biters
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Narrow Horizons
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
 3
Speed Of Life
Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
 5
Bloodline
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sidekick
 7
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Only Human Var.
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Clay, Like Dirt
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Flakes
 61
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
To Air is Human
 36
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
El Chollo
 9
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
The Ripping Wall
 5
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 3 pitches
El Segundo
 7
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Gran Hermano
 5
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Christopher of the Everglades
 8
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
El Pipe Dream
 5
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Ankle Biters
 8
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Narrow Horizons
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Speed Of Life
 3
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R Trad
Bloodline
 5
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 Trad
More Classic Climbs in East Gate Buttress »

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drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
This area is best approached from the Great White Icicle parking. Head west along the jeep road that heads toward the Black Peeler. There's a nice trail that skirts along the base of the Peeler, and leads right to the East Gate. Watch for snakes! Jan 29, 2013
Derek West Newman
Salt Lake City, Utah
Derek West Newman   Salt Lake City, Utah
The approach information on Mountain Project neglects to mention that the Upper East Gate routes (This Aint No Disco, To Air is Human, Only Human Variation, Under Fire, Trivial Pursuit, The Flakes, and Wild Things) have a ledge out left that you have to traverse. The traverse starts after a big ramp that starts near Graying at the Routes. Apr 1, 2015