All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Gate Buttress > Dihedrals Area

Half-A-Finger

Name: Half-A-Finger
Rating: 3.4

5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in Dihedrals Area

L › R R › L A › Z

	Black and White Frosted, John and Mary T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Black and White John and Mary, Direct Finish T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Core Shot S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Equipment Overhang T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Equipment Overhang Right T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Fallen Angel Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Half-A-Finger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Incubator S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Lisa's Shoulder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Motor Skills T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Premature T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Satan's Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Satan's Nook T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Stem the Tide S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R

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Type:	Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
GPS:	40.57311, -111.75298
FA:	FA: Dave Boyd & Eric Eliason 1970, FFA: Dave Jenkins & Rick Wyatt 1977
Page Views:	12,163 total · 46/month
Shared By:	Peter Gram on Mar 17, 2004
Admins:	Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

Half-A-Finger is a unique thin crack with 3 cruxes, and rests in between. Near the left side of the dihedrals area, look for a small pinnacle (the finger) up about 70 feet. This is the route. Start in a corner with no crack (but pro is available). Continue through two bulges with a finger crack. These are the first two cruxes. End the pitch by awkwardly squeezing up the finger with double hand cracks (third crux). I believe another variation avoids the awkward topout and climbs the face on the left.

Rap with one rope from fixed chain anchors.