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Routes in Dihedrals Area

Black and White John and Mary T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Core Shot S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Equipment Overhang T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Equipment Overhang Right T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Fallen Angel Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Half-A-Finger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Incubator S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lisa's Shoulder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Premature T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Satan's Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Satan's Nook T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stem the Tide S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: FA: Dave Boyd & Eric Eliason 1970, FFA: Dave Jenkins & Rick Wyatt 1977
Page Views: 7,640 total, 46/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Mar 17, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Half-A-Finger is a unique thin crack with 3 cruxes, and rests in between. Near the left side of the dihedrals area, look for a small pinnacle (the finger) up about 70 feet. This is the route. Start in a corner with no crack (but pro is available). Continue through two bulges with a finger crack. These are the first two cruxes. End the pitch by awkwardly squeezing up the finger with double hand cracks (third crux). I believe another variation avoids the awkward topout and climbs the face on the left.

Rap with one rope from fixed chain anchors.

Protection

Standard Rack, nothing very big is needed. Hand sized piece for the tricky topout.
JackCrockett  
 
Finally went left. I found it to be easier but more exciting than the direct finish. Changed my rating to 4 stars after. Sep 14, 2017
KG
SLC, UT
  5.9+
KG   SLC, UT
  5.9+
From the anchors of Half-a-Finger you can start out on Hornets Rest (5.8). I would highly recommend doing this pitch! It's a fun route well worth doing. Mar 12, 2017
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
Like so many Little Cottonwood routes, this one looks very "meh" and unprotectable from the ground but offers fairly top notch climbing and good gear (ok, maybe that latter one isn't necessarily so typical in LCC, ha). I do agree that the main crux--the committing overhang--is harder for shorter people. I had to climb up off the ledge and stance up in a pumpy position to put in my gear. My much taller partner had no issues reaching up to place from the rest before getting up in the business. Not to mention the steep, reachy sequence that comes thereafter. Bogus! But worthwhile for everyone. :-) Oct 13, 2014
Skat B
Down Rodeo
  5.9+
Skat B   Down Rodeo
  5.9+
If there is a crux on this climb then it would be going left of the horn, which is the only reason I gave it a 5.9+ rating. 3 cruxes? No. More like 3 great rests. The gear is all there - I mostly used finger-sized cams except for the roof (#3 w/ a sling). This is a height dependent route as my 5'3" friend had a harder time climbing this - and she usually out-climbs me.

I'd definitely recommend this for the 5.9 leader since it has:
-so many gear placements that you could sew this thing up tight
-so many fingerlocks and jugs with great feet
-so many good rests (if you need them)
-relatively short compared to other 5.9s in the canyon
-super aesthetic & a great warm-up for BAWJAM to the right. Jun 26, 2014
S.Cohen
 
S.Cohen  
 
Great line with amazing fingers through the first two cruxes. Trying to finish through the squeeze is pretty awkward. Trust yourself and bust out left for the hero finish. Jun 12, 2014
Danie White
SLC, UT
  5.10a/b
Danie White   SLC, UT
  5.10a/b
I found this pretty stiff for the grade, even by LCC standards. I got on it as a warmup and ended up getting a workout. I second Jeff Guest's comment that maybe it's a little harder if you're short (I'm 5'4")? I found myself using wide and high feet and feeling quite exposed before I could reach the next good hold. Super fun though! Oct 12, 2013
Jon Marek
Sioux Falls, SD
 
Jon Marek   Sioux Falls, SD
 
Very fun! Somehow I ended up on my belly looking strait down while surmounting the finger, very exposed but soooo cool. Dec 1, 2012
Rob C.
Freeport, ME
  5.9+
Rob C.   Freeport, ME
  5.9+
This was awesome, I finally led it. The cruxes are a little intimidating, but so fun! Oct 21, 2010
Rockwood
West Jordan
 
Rockwood   West Jordan
 
We did 5 routes in the dihedrals yesterday and this was my favorite. I didn't know going left was an option at the top, I'll take it next time for the exposure, but the finger at the top was still my favorite part. I ended up slotting my whole left arm in it and pulled directly over the top. Just that move was worth it. I'll be back for more laps on this one. (comparing it to Satan's Corner I'd give Satan's a 5.9- and this a 5.9+) Apr 27, 2010
Alec LaLonde
  5.9+
Alec LaLonde  
  5.9+
This really isn't sustained or strenuous at all. There are excellent stances for placing bomber pro before each crux. Ten is dead on -- great for a 5.10 sport climber learning to place gear. Oct 12, 2009
Jeff Guest
Coalville, UT
 
Jeff Guest   Coalville, UT
 
This one is a little harder for the shorter people. I'm 5'5" and had a good struggle with this one. Must be creative if your short. It's all part of the fun! Aug 29, 2009
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
Another superb route at the diehedrals! Before committing to the wild left finish, I place a 3 camalot with a long sling as high as possible. Then I lieback the finger and try not to use a knee when my feet cut loose! Aug 2, 2007
It is a cool climb. Dont sweat it, now you can go back and go left, but I fail to see that there is a right or wrong way.

Historical Note: The way left on the finger used to have a BFJ (Big F***ing Jugg), but it broke off in the mid 1980's. Sep 2, 2006
David Shiembob
slc, ut
 
David Shiembob   slc, ut
 
Great climb, I thought the first two cruxes were pretty easy, ( great fingers, great pro) but very fun. That last thing is pretty awkward though. I took the right variation, so I'm not cool I guess. I had no idea how I was supposed to go left! Now I'm getting the idea, but hey, it was an onsight, I took what I saw. Sep 1, 2006
tenesmus  
 
umm, its not sustained as described, so don't be afraid to get on it and boulder the cruxes to the good rests. Great for the aspiring 5.9 gear leader with sport climbing experience. Apr 13, 2006
Nathan Fisher
  5.10a
Nathan Fisher  
  5.10a
Can a route get any better than this one. I think not. Well that may be a bit strong, but this route kicks ass!!! 3 definite cruxes, great rock, good length, oh and the exposure on the finger. That is, of course, if you do the left finger variation. Wrap your little arms aroung that loving finger and campus on up. Man, what a route!!!! Apr 13, 2005
A must do LCC Classic!!! May 4, 2004
The left finish is where it is at! Mar 23, 2004