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Routes in Dihedrals Area

Black and White John and Mary T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Core Shot S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Equipment Overhang T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Equipment Overhang Right T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Fallen Angel Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Half-A-Finger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Incubator S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lisa's Shoulder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Premature T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Satan's Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Satan's Nook T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stem the Tide S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: FA: E. Eliason, D. Raymond, 1969, FFA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,520 total · 14/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Mar 17, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Lisa's Shoulder is the first major dihedral left of Satan's Corner. It is a fun gear-protected face climb. It is given a R in the guidebooks, but protection can be found to make it reasonably safe. Probably the most dangerous part of the route can be avoided. The first part of the climb is a dihedral without a crack. Instead, start by climbing up a difficult bulging hand crack just to the left which is about 10 feet long. Then pull up through bulges on the face to the start of a thin seam. Climb up this seam placing small cams and clipping a bolt. This face is thin with good feet. Then finish up the airy arete right for 15' to the anchor.

Rap with one rope off of the chain anchors.

Protection

One bolt, standard rack with small cams (tcu or alien)

Photos

Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.9
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.9
Great route!!!The stemmy lower crux can be marginally protected with a long sling over the shallow bulge in the corner. The airy finish is well protected with a 3 camalot. Mar 17, 2005
Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.8+
Nathan Fisher   St George  
  5.8+
This wasn't as good as I was expecting. I would almost feel better with the small gear that would work over that bolt. Jun 30, 2005
tenesmus  
 
Nate, go on a hot sunny day and it won't feel like 5.8+. I think the handcrack way protects really well but it might make it harder. Apr 28, 2007
L. Hamilton
  5.9+ PG13
L. Hamilton  
  5.9+ PG13
I agree, the hand crack protects well but felt more like 9+, harder than the upper face. It might make it a better route too, adding a couple of small overhangs. The upper face and arete finish are just fun, plenty of interest for such a short pitch. May 3, 2007
Ben Folsom
  5.9
Ben Folsom  
  5.9
This is a great route on really good rock. The direct way down low is pretty fun. The upper face is superb. Protects nicely! May 5, 2008
Tyler King
Salt Lake, UT
  5.9
Tyler King   Salt Lake, UT
  5.9
This is an awesome route. The top section is exposed and requires some thin face moves. Protects well.

+1 to the long sling over the shallow bulge in the corner on the stemmy lower crux. Jul 7, 2008
dnaiscool  
 
I planted a couple of "0" TCUs for that crux step up off the ledge on to the slab proper. The left toe jam here was key for me. Kinda scary, indeed, and that's what made this climb so special.

My Rack:
Camalot (single) #1,2,3;
Triples TCU from 0-2;
a fist'o DMM Peanuts;
draws and a double runner to break out on the top hand traverse.

Best be a 5.10 climber to feel secure on the on-sight...or pump up your game, tighten up those edging shoes and go for it!! This is a very satisfying lead, and the hand traverse at the top is way cool. Apr 15, 2015
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.9 PG13
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.9 PG13
The upper face protects very well, probably R without all the modern trinkets. The direct start in the dihedral is probably the only PG section with a move to get established below the crack. Apr 11, 2016

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