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Routes in Dihedrals Area

Black and White John and Mary T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Core Shot S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Equipment Overhang T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Equipment Overhang Right T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Fallen Angel Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Half-A-Finger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Incubator S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lisa's Shoulder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Premature T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Satan's Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Satan's Nook T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stem the Tide S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: FFA: Jack Roberts, Frank Trummel 1976
Page Views: 3,036 total · 22/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 6, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This climbs up the right side of the obvious overhang in the middle of the wall. It stays consistent most of the way. It starts with a wide crack that thins out to some face climbing (crux).

It then works the arete a bit and back into the crack just right of the overhang. The crack above the overhang is a blast, as is the face finish.

The crux is very delicate and is protected with brass, so be careful. However, IMO, it was not runout like the book claims.

Location

Just right of Equipment Overhang Left.

Protection

Standard rack, heavy on the small stuff. I used one brass and 2 small aliens, and a WC Zero. Chains at the top.

Photos

Matty Coles
Salt Lake City
 
Matty Coles   Salt Lake City
 
What a good route! Pulling out onto the arete for a bit of exposure at the crux feels great and can be protected with some "OK" small nut placements. The gear is there, but it's not always great. May 31, 2017
KG
SLC, UT
  5.10b
KG   SLC, UT
  5.10b
This route is fantastic.

5.8/5.9 climbing with a short 10b section thrown in there about 3/4 of the way up.

Not PG13 - there is gear all the way.

Rack: Doubles .3-.75 + Singles .1, .2, 1, and 2. Plus a set of nuts. Oct 17, 2015
Jesse Kenyon
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b
Jesse Kenyon   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b
Agreed on being able to sew it up. Crux protects well with multiple small nuts if you want. Mostly 5.9 Climbing with a few 5.10b moves. Great fun!
Mar 15, 2015
Normally I don't climb R routes in LCC, or anywhere for that matter, but I lead this yesterday and was able to sew it up. Nice alien above the crux, small metolius tcus for the last bit. Sep 1, 2011
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
  5.10b
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
  5.10b
No way does it deserve a seriousness rating. There's gear the whole way. First, there's a whopping threadable flake before the crux. The placements at the crux have gotten better over the years. What used to be RPs at the crux are now small, but bomb-proof stoppers. Aug 15, 2008
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.10b
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.10b
You can save money and use two bomber small nuts (~3 stopper) at the crux. Also if the crux gets to easy (never been for me - always exciting!), I've watched people stay in the corner the whole way! Aug 2, 2007
David Shiembob
slc, ut
  5.10b
David Shiembob   slc, ut
  5.10b
This thing is fun! Definitely not R, it protects fine, but thin gear at the crux, like Nathan said. I protected the hardest moves with a 00 C3 (not mine, but now I gotta buy a set I think) and a blue metolius TCU. I thought the crux was moving from the face/corner to the arete, but that whole section was pretty hard. Sep 9, 2006