Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches
FA: FA: B. Irving, D. Wood, 1962 FFA: G. Lowe & E. Anderson
Page Views: 28,218 total · 141/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on May 1, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Super classic jam crack. Stout for 5.8, and gear can be a little strenuous to place at times. Start in the same spot as Beckey's Wall. Satan's Corner can be done in 1 or 2 pitches, but I'd recommend doing it in a single pitch. Fairly sustained, both pitches are 5.8.

P1) Climb the vertical hand jam crack on the wall left of Beckey's Wall. The crux comes at a spot where the crack is too wide for easy foot jamming. Belay at a good sized ledge with a hand sized crack for setting an anchor.

P2) Climb a short easy crack, then step over to a ledge. Then hand jam up a steep and exposed flake, with some delicate moves required. Continue up to a fixed pin, then hand traverse left on jugs to the anchors (same anchors as Lisa's Shoulder).

Descent) Rap 100' down the dihedral back to the base. A 50 meter rope would probably only reach the ledge a little higher with some easy downclimbing.

Protection

Standard Rack. Emphasize hand size, but I placed sizes from a green alien up to a 3.5 camalot.

Photos