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> Gate Buttress
> Dihedrals Area
Satan's Corner
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.6 from 618
votes
Routes in Dihedrals Area
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Black and White Frosted, John and Mary T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Black and White John and Mary, Direct Finish T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Core Shot S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Equipment Overhang T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Equipment Overhang Right T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Fallen Angel Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Half-A-Finger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Incubator S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Lisa's Shoulder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Motor Skills T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Premature T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Satan's Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Satan's Nook T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stem the Tide S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | FA: B. Irving, D. Wood, 1962 FFA: G. Lowe & E. Anderson |
| Page Views: | 34,387 total · 137/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Gram on May 1, 2004 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Super classic jam crack. Stout for 5.8, and gear can be a little strenuous to place at times. Start in the same spot as Beckey's Wall. Satan's Corner can be done in 1 or 2 pitches, but I'd recommend doing it in a single pitch. Fairly sustained, both pitches are 5.8.
P1) Climb the vertical hand jam crack on the wall left of Beckey's Wall. The crux comes at a spot where the crack is too wide for easy foot jamming. Belay at a good sized ledge with a hand sized crack for setting an anchor.
P2) Climb a short easy crack, then step over to a ledge. Then hand jam up a steep and exposed flake, with some delicate moves required. Continue up to a fixed pin, then hand traverse left on jugs to the anchors (same anchors as Lisa's Shoulder).
Descent) Rap 100' down the dihedral back to the base. A 50 meter rope would probably only reach the ledge a little higher with some easy downclimbing.
P1) Climb the vertical hand jam crack on the wall left of Beckey's Wall. The crux comes at a spot where the crack is too wide for easy foot jamming. Belay at a good sized ledge with a hand sized crack for setting an anchor.
P2) Climb a short easy crack, then step over to a ledge. Then hand jam up a steep and exposed flake, with some delicate moves required. Continue up to a fixed pin, then hand traverse left on jugs to the anchors (same anchors as Lisa's Shoulder).
Descent) Rap 100' down the dihedral back to the base. A 50 meter rope would probably only reach the ledge a little higher with some easy downclimbing.
Photos
![1) [[105740039]] 5.9+<br>
2) [[105741449]] 5.10c<br>
3) [[105741164]] 5.11a<br>
4) [[105740042]] 5.9R<br>
5) [[105740510]] 5.8](https://mountainproject.com/assets/photos/climb/9300290_smallMed_1557855364.jpg?cache=1699430207)
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