All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Gate Buttress > Dihedrals Area

Satan's Corner

Name: Satan's Corner
Rating: 3.6

5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in Dihedrals Area

L › R R › L A › Z

	Black and White Frosted, John and Mary T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Black and White John and Mary, Direct Finish T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Core Shot S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Equipment Overhang T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Equipment Overhang Right T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Fallen Angel Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Half-A-Finger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Incubator S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Lisa's Shoulder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Motor Skills T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Premature T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Satan's Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Satan's Nook T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Stem the Tide S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R

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Type:	Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches
GPS:	40.57311, -111.75298
FA:	FA: B. Irving, D. Wood, 1962 FFA: G. Lowe & E. Anderson
Page Views:	34,733 total · 131/month
Shared By:	Peter Gram on May 1, 2004 · Updates
Admins:	Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

Super classic jam crack. Stout for 5.8, and gear can be a little strenuous to place at times. Start in the same spot as Beckey's Wall. Satan's Corner can be done in 1 or 2 pitches, but I'd recommend doing it in a single pitch. Fairly sustained, both pitches are 5.8.

P1) Climb the vertical hand jam crack on the wall left of Beckey's Wall. The crux comes at a spot where the crack is too wide for easy foot jamming. Belay at a good sized ledge with a hand sized crack for setting an anchor.

P2) Climb a short easy crack, then step over to a ledge. Then hand jam up a steep and exposed flake, with some delicate moves required. Continue up a shallow corner, then hand traverse left on jugs to the anchors (same anchors as Lisa's Shoulder).

Descent) Rap 100' down the dihedral back to the base. A 50 meter rope would probably only reach the ledge a little higher with some easy downclimbing.