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Routes in Dihedrals Area

Black and White John and Mary T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Core Shot S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Equipment Overhang T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Equipment Overhang Right T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Fallen Angel Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Half-A-Finger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Incubator S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lisa's Shoulder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Premature T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Satan's Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Satan's Nook T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stem the Tide S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FA: B. Irving, D. Wood, 1962 FFA: G. Lowe & E. Anderson
Page Views: 21,992 total, 133/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on May 1, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Super classic jam crack. Stout for 5.8, and gear can be a little strenuous to place at times. Start in the same spot as Beckey's Wall. Satan's Corner can be done in 1 or 2 pitches, but I'd recommend doing it in a single pitch. Fairly sustained, both pitches are 5.8.

P1) Climb the vertical hand jam crack on the wall left of Beckey's Wall. The crux comes at a spot where the crack is too wide for easy foot jamming. Belay at a good sized ledge with a hand sized crack for setting an anchor.

P2) Climb a short easy crack, then step over to a ledge. Then hand jam up a steep and exposed flake, with some delicate moves required. Continue up to a fixed pin, then hand traverse left on jugs to the anchors (same anchors as Lisa's Shoulder).

Descent) Rap 100' down the dihedral back to the base. A 50 meter rope would probably only reach the ledge a little higher with some easy downclimbing.

Protection

Standard Rack. Emphasize hand size, but I placed sizes from a green alien up to a 3.5 camalot.
Alex Temus
Small Town, USA
  5.9
Alex Temus   Small Town, USA
  5.9
Such a good route! Best in the canyon. Jul 30, 2017
Hey! Lost my keys on 9/25 at the base of the Satans Crack belay station. Keys are attached to a green carabiner and are a car key, car remote, 3 house keys, momentum pass. If you go up there and find them or if you find them on the approach somewhere please let me know! jpimsler@gmail.com Sep 26, 2015
S.Cohen
 
S.Cohen  
 
I found the steep crack to be the crux. Upper section is money! Jun 24, 2014
Huli Hutu  
 
Great hand jams and laybacking for the majority of the route. Then there is an awesome, highly exposed series of moves towards the end of the second pitch. I didn't really find this climb hard to protect. Highly recommend! Jun 9, 2014
Kevin Chuba
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+ PG13
Kevin Chuba   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+ PG13
Great route! Tri-cam is still at the crux section. Keep your feet in the crack and stand up. Did it in one pitch with a 70 meter rope with no issues getting back to the ground. Doubles in hand size pieces. A #3 and you can even bring a #4! I did not have the 4 but it will go. I want to lead it again. Oct 24, 2013
BJB
Texas
 
BJB   Texas
 
The Wastach range guide warns that this rout is really difficult to protect and that people have died on it, so we almost didn't do it which would have been a big mistake. I thought it was one of the most fun in the canyon. I thought the pro was all pretty straight forward. We did it in one pitch using a single set of stoppers and a set of cams up to a 3 Friend with no duplicates.
Its also a bit safer now thanks to whoever got their $80 tricam stuck. Jul 24, 2012
Buddy Tangalos
Salt Lake City
 
Buddy Tangalos   Salt Lake City
 
Climbed this route during both dry and wet conditions. The lower pitch gets wet, but the jams are solid even while it is raining. The upper pitch (and crux) stay pretty dry during rain, as a slight overhang above provides some shelter. I don't recommend climbing Satan's during wet conditions, but lightening and thunder forced a quick retreat from the summit, and abandoned gear on the route required recovery. Good times. Jul 17, 2012
Joseph Lascurain
Cincinnati
 
Joseph Lascurain   Cincinnati
 
Great exposure, fun moves, a new favorite. Jul 13, 2012
JoeyS Sweeney
Salt Lake City, UT
 
JoeyS Sweeney   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Great route definitely deserves the high rating. The traverse to the bolts isn't bad because there's solid feet all the way over. On another note I had a BD #2 walk way back into the crack just above the crux. It would be great to get it back in exchange for some beers. Mar 28, 2012
Christian West
  5.8+
Christian West  
  5.8+
I've seconded this twice in the last month and it is an awesome climb. I found it pumpy and the last move a bit scary but commit to the juggy ledge and it's a money feeling. Sep 30, 2011
Woodson
Park City, Ut.
  5.8
Woodson   Park City, Ut.
  5.8
Azollo: The low way is not bad, but I like the high traverse myself. It's a good rail to grab on to, and plus there is a great spot for a small cam up there to protect your second. I've seen some folks intimidated by the move to grab the flake above the piton-it's a bit of a reach :) Jul 25, 2011
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.8+
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.8+
I think it's fair to call this climb 5.8+. Definitely not 5.9 though. If you don't know how to handjam, then this climb will let you know! Also, how can you not climb a route with such a great name. Jul 4, 2011
Azollo
 
Azollo  
 
I lean with those that say 5.9+, but I have only climbed it once on lead when I was tired (so I won't add my rating yet).

Classic.

Quick question though. When I got to the top piton, I threw up high for a big juggy ledge and then traversed. Some other guy says the proper way is to traverse from the piton to the bolts without popping to the ledge. That traverse looked crazy to me (though throwing up to the ledge felt crazy too :D). How do you guys do it? Jun 14, 2011
user id
Ogden, Utah
user id   Ogden, Utah
Holy name drop! Who the fuck is Limber Almonds? Aug 19, 2010
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
I don't think Merrill has climbed lcc since last decade Aug 17, 2010
Michael Buchanan  
  5.8
Should probably do the route in one pitch to save time and to get the "full value" experience. Kimber Almond told me he once saw Mugs Stump do this route placing only 2 pieces of pro. Merrill solos it all the time. What hardmen! Aug 17, 2010
Barry52  
The morning that I first climbed Satan's was ominous. My friend and I got to the base, and found thick, caked, dried blood all over the ground. It was just a few spatters--it was at least an inch thick in some places, and it was literally ALL OVER! Needless to say, we were a little freaked-out. It was about 5:30 -- 6:00 a.m. Great route though! Dec 9, 2009
daniel c
San Francisco, CA
  5.8
daniel c   San Francisco, CA
  5.8
P1 - Straightforward if you are comfortable jamming. I saw a strong sport climber take a fall on this section due to lack of jamming skills
P2 - Easy low angle crack to a steeper, left pushing hand crack, flaring in sections making jamming impossible. Agree with Taylor - key for me was to smear left foot (yikes! exposure!), jam right foot, walk up hands, repeat. Don't clip that manky old fixed cam!

Great route. Have fun with it! Sep 16, 2009
Finn the Human
The Land of Ooo
  5.8+
Finn the Human   The Land of Ooo
  5.8+
Yeah, I'm the genius that got the above poster into trouble. Still, it was a rocking climb, and required a lot more finesse than I can usually pull off :P

The crux is definitely pulling up the crack on the second pitch. Don't be afraid (like I was!) to smear in order to get a good high foot jam. Super exposed traverse on the biggest rail you'll ever find (feels like a ladder rung) makes you feel like a badass! Aug 17, 2009
Derek Newman
Holladay, UT
  5.8+
Derek Newman   Holladay, UT
  5.8+
I climbed this today; it was my first multi-pitch/lead/trad climb and it was very humbling. My friend and I messed up on our protection so many times we decided to do it twice to prove to ourselves that we can protect well. We climbed well the first time but protected poor and climbed poor the second time but protected better. I felt that the crux is on the second pitch about twenty feet up, and the crux feels a lot more difficult than a 5.8 to me. But, this was very psychologically terrifying for me so I wasn't in the greatest state of mind to judge. I thought the protection is safe, but again I'm not the most experienced judge in this situation. Aug 17, 2009
Have done this a dozen times and would do it many dozen more...one of my all time favorites! Each steep jamming part is made much easier with good foot jams. Jul 29, 2009
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
Best 5.8 pitch in LCC?? Can't think of any better. I climbed it on 6/6/6 ;) Aug 2, 2007
Mark Michaels
Draper, UT
 
Mark Michaels   Draper, UT
 
My friend Noah Duys died in 9/2004 while rapping from a single pin atop the first pitch of this route. Sep 23, 2006
David Shiembob
slc, ut
 
David Shiembob   slc, ut
 
I did it as one pitch today, man this thing is cool. I find the bottom of the corner on the second pitch to be the crux. The first handcrack is so money, I ran it out (after the crux) without even realizing it. Sep 1, 2006
Joe Auer
Moab, Utah
 
Joe Auer   Moab, Utah
 
tea, doug was soloing half-a-finger on his epic fall. as for the other deaths on SC: one involved the leader getting heinous rope drag, untying(!) and trying to solo the last moves; the other was a rappel accident when a fixed pin atop the "first pitch" pulled, iirc. Jul 27, 2006
After climbing this route a few times, the first pitch still feels somewhat insecure the whole way. 2 years ago, this was my 2nd ever trad lead as an aspiring 5.8 leader (very bad idea). Halfway through the first pitch I loaded up my shorts and bailed left to the 5.6 variation. The next week I drug an "over confident" 5.12 sport climber up there only to see him humbled in the same way. The second pitch is fantastic! Great exposure under the hand traverse. Definitely a classic. Mar 25, 2006
Tea
Tea  
I heard a story years ago that local hardman Doug Heinrich was soloing this route (or maybe one of the other dihedrals routes), pitched, did two flips (used to be a diver I guess), landed on the ledge on his feet , broke both ankles, and survived! What a stud. I also believe the deaths had to do with a person getting such bad rope drag, they untied to solo over to the anchors...and took the big ride to Valhalla.

Great pitch...don't miss it! Mar 23, 2006
d-know
electric lady land
  5.8
d-know   electric lady land
  5.8
love the exposure at the top Jan 25, 2006
vincent pierce  
  5.8
First pitch is a little harder than it looks. The jams are pretty deep but climbing is straight forward. Second pitch is just plain fun with a sweet flake traverse loaded with great exposure. Don't forget your foot jam on the cruxy section above the halfway ledge! Aug 28, 2005
Nathan Fisher
  5.8
Nathan Fisher  
  5.8
If you haven't done this route, get off your A$$ and do it. One long pitch makes for better climbing as it flows, and then you get to lead the entire route. 50M rope gets you to the base of Stem the Tide and then downclimb the chimney. Jun 30, 2005
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.8+
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.8+
Excellent and sustained. Extra cams from #0.5 to #2 Camalot are useful if you lead the climb as one pitch. The crux section above the halfway ledge felt harder than 5.8. Oct 18, 2004