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Routes in Dihedrals Area

Black and White John and Mary T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Core Shot S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Equipment Overhang T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Equipment Overhang Right T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Fallen Angel Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Half-A-Finger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Incubator S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lisa's Shoulder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Premature T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Satan's Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Satan's Nook T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stem the Tide S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Merill Bitter, Stuart Ruckman, 1983
Page Views: 2,503 total, 17/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 29, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Just left of Satan's Corner is a dihedral with three bolts. This climb forces you to stem almost the entire way up this near vertical line. The stems are mouth-watering and wide, the holds are nearly non-existent, and the fall potential is long. I would almost say this is better than Satan's.

Protection

3 bolts and shared anchors with Satan's Corner.

Photos

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Jaron a
SLC
  5.10d R
Jaron a   SLC
  5.10d R
I agree with KPRTX give it a good ol' english try with a good buddy willing to hop off the ledge should you blow any of the moves high above the bolts. I'd been looking at this and working up the courage to try it all year and finally sent. Took 2 falls right at the first bolts and (softly) hit the ledge. After that went full lizard brain for it. Mouth watering stems, shrieks of seemingly impending doom, a locker draw, and the worst 0/1 metolius offset cam known to man saw me through. Absolutely thrilling climbing. Nov 15, 2017
dnaiscool  
 
If you rap from the top of Satan's Corner and peek at the rock in front of you, does that negate the "On Sight?" Anyway, I led this with no preview and no info...and it was plenty scary. I found a place to fiddle in gear 10' above the first bolt, so I locked in that stem and pulled up a long loop of rope to drop down to my belayer.

You are looking at a fall almost (probably) to the deck just before each clip. And at the last moves, which are the most insecure, the fall would drop you from the vertical down to the lower angled slab below. When I led this I was on-sighting .11d, and this climb pegged my 'Danger Meter.'

Since there is potential for a 50+ foot fall that could land you on the ledge, I'll give this lead an (R/X) for the on-sight.

Anyone who is soloing this is most likely a 5.12 climber, so don't kid yourself into thinking it's a push-over climb for the grade because it gets soloed...it is not. Apr 15, 2015
Christian West
  5.10d
Christian West  
  5.10d
Did this top rope, was some crazy stemming involved that got my heart going. Sep 30, 2011
I watched Chris from Black Diamond solo this route a little while back...wild Jul 29, 2009
I admit that I did this on TR. Crazy stuff and movement that I never expected. Would be a PROUD lead! Jul 29, 2009
KPRTX  
I tried to onsite it, the falls don't feel so good if you come off weird. I haven't gone back to try again, soon... I don't think you need to top rope it either, give it a good english try on lead first. Dec 4, 2008
tenesmus  
 
Its actually kinda less scary to lead for some reason. I don't understand why, but it was. Apr 13, 2006
d-know
electric lady land
  5.10d
d-know   electric lady land
  5.10d
body english yeah. put up on the lead w/pins . merrill is my hero Jan 25, 2006
vincent pierce
  5.10d
vincent pierce  
  5.10d
well this would be a scary ass lead but... Aug 27, 2005