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Routes in Five Fingers Area

Chicken Chickenhead T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fat Man's Misery T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Five Fingers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hornet's Rest T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scumbag Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tenderloin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Waltz, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Ted Wilson, Bob & Wilf Bruschke
Page Views: 1,642 total · 11/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Jun 15, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


This climb starts from the anchors of Half-a-Finger. First do Half-a-Finger, or I think maybe this ledge is reachable from the top of the Five Fingers buttress (?).

The pitch climbs a short hand crack in a right facing dihedral to a huge ledge. Then a few delicate moves up a very thin finger crack/seam in a dihedral lead to a roof. Hand traverse right along the roof and then up a groove/crack to the anchors atop Satan's Corner.

One 60m rope can rap here down to a ledge at the start of Lisa's Shoulder.


Single set of cams from red alien up to #3 camalot. Stoppers. Chain anchors shared with Satan's Corner.


I would definitely recommend this route! Fun climbing on good rock. Hopefully this will get more traffic with the new guidebook. Mar 15, 2017
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Make sure to bring some micros and a purple tcu as the gear placements are small for the first 20 feet after the hand crack. The roof looks hard as it is quite wide, but some shuffle underclinging will get you past it without too much stress. I did place a #4 camalot but not absolutely necessary. Another good moderate route at the dihedrals. Jul 22, 2011
Mark D Evans
Sandy, UT
Mark D Evans   Sandy, UT
Pretty cool little route! I didn't have a #4 and don't feel I needed one. A #2.5 friend(#2 camalot) protected the start and a #3 camalot protected the end. Either way, this is a worthy route for sure. Mar 31, 2011
Tyler King
Salt Lake, UT
Tyler King   Salt Lake, UT
Rock quality is good, and the climbing is varied and consistent at the grade. Great route that had me grinning for a while after! There is only one place that will take your #4, so dig deep... Jun 6, 2010
I thought this route was fantastic. Very clean, not "ricey" as reported. Crux after crux after crux with great stances for gear. We had a #4 camalot that was key for the traverse. A #5 would have been a little easier to deal with, but is not esential. And yes, you can get to it w/out climbing half-a-finger, but why? Jun 5, 2010
Double D SLC
Double D SLC  
Why not climb 2 great pitches instead of one? Sep 18, 2007
Peter Gram
Cupertino, CA
Peter Gram   Cupertino, CA  
Hornet's Rest is the crack system above all the other dihedral routes in the beta photo. It climbs up the right facing dihedral seen in the picture, then traverses the roof (shaded) rightward. Jun 17, 2005