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Routes in Schoolroom Area

Angling Angels T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bungle, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Bushwhack Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Callitwhatyouplease T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chicken Rodeo T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Great Ripoff, The T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Gumbyland S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hatchet Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heaven's Gate T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Hook Direct, The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Hook Variation, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hook, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Knobs to Gumbyland S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lizzie Borden T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mantel Variation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mind Blow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Movie Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Playing Hooky Var. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Recess Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Rising Sun T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Rumba, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Schoolroom T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Schoolroom Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Schoolroom Direct Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Schoolroom Roof T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1
Schoolroom Streak T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Schoolroom West T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scourge, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
State of Confusion T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stone the Crows S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Talus Food S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown Slab Route S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bill Conrod, Paul Anderson, 1965
Page Views: 20,416 total · 120/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Mar 22, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Bushwhack Crack is a very fine, beautiful jam crack on the right side of the Schoolroom wall. It is the obvious straight in splitter with several trees in it about 100' up. The first pitch is a 3-star pitch, too bad it is not longer!

P1) 5.8 Climb the thin hands crack, passing the crux right off the deck. Continue up, with the crack turning to fists near the belay. The first pitch ends at a set of chain anchors and a small foot ledge. Many people rap at this point (one rope), but the second pitch is also pretty good.

P2) 5.7 Continue up the crack through the trees, angling right until a crack starts going straight up. Climb this (low angle) to a thin traverse at a chicken head. Continue easily to the right with a tree with anchors.

Descent) Downclimb 10 - 15 feet to a set of chain anchors on the face. Rap 100' down to the deck.

Protection

Standard Rack - mostly pro for thin hands. Some pieces up to a #3 camalot size are useful too.
Alex Temus
Small Town, USA
  5.8
Alex Temus   Small Town, USA
  5.8
Just to add another opinion, I found Satan's corner to be more difficult than this route, also, more enjoyable. Satan's corner is definitely the best route I've done in LCC (although, I must admit I have not done all that many). Aug 13, 2017
gradymellin
  5.8+
gradymellin  
  5.8+
I got on this thing for the first time on a nice 85/90 degree afternoon and struggled HARD for the send!! The thin hands section on the first pitch turned into a slip and slide in the hot sun and i used about a brick of chalk. In those conditions this thing is solid 10a/b but I can see how in cooler temps this would be cruiser! Jun 1, 2017
Jeremy Polk
Sandy, UT
 
Jeremy Polk   Sandy, UT
 
I don't think this is harder than 5.8 but I do think it's harder than Satan's. The jams on Satan's are really secure compared to this one. Easier than Movie Variation? Yeah, I could see that. Definitely less physical than Movie Variation. I guess my ratings for the three would be:

Satan's 5.8-
Bushwhack 5.8
Movie Variation 5.8+ Nov 14, 2016
Evan Ratzan
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Evan Ratzan   Salt Lake City, UT
 
A 60m rope does not get you down from pitch 2 (right side) to the pitch 1 chains, but it will get you to the trees above them if you care to rap or do a very sketchy downclimb. Pitch 1 to the ground is no problem with a 60m though. Mar 29, 2015
brian hess
Logan, Utah
brian hess   Logan, Utah
This was my 1st successful trad lead. Good times;) Dec 9, 2014
Ryan202
West Jordan, UT
Ryan202   West Jordan, UT
Pro is great throughout. Takes nuts really well, I just take too long placing them still so I end up using more cams than nuts. Belay at the chains, not the trees. The tress are more comfortable, and I belayed there. Then I re-read the comments and saw the comment about the chains being added since the formerly slung tree (which I didn't use that one) was getting damaged. So I f'd up on my part. Two people easily stand comfortably at those chains. Sep 18, 2014
Huli Hutu
  5.8
Huli Hutu  
  5.8
I first attempted this route in early March as the snow in the area was melting and found the climb to be wet and icy. However, I returned to Bushwhack for the redpoint last weekend. This was my second ever trad lead and I felt really comfortable. The crux is definitely the first 20 or so feet off the deck, but I found the climbing to be relatively tame (bomber hand jams) throughout. May 27, 2014
boulderkeith
Boulder, CO
  5.8+
boulderkeith   Boulder, CO
  5.8+
See Guideline #1.

My comment was intended for the benefit of a visiting climber with limited time choosing a few routes to do. If you only have time for one route at Gates Buttress, I'd recommend Beckeys Wall over Bushwhack Crack. Sep 5, 2012
boulderkeith
Boulder, CO
  5.8+
boulderkeith   Boulder, CO
  5.8+
While the first pitch (less than 100') is pretty good, to me this route lacks the length to be classic. The 2nd pitch is pretty marginal. The TR crowd has polished the bottom of the crack. Slippery isn't usual the desired characteristic of a really aesthetic climb. Sure, it is worth doing if you are there. But classic? Eh. Sep 5, 2012
Joseph Lascurain
Cincinnati
 
Joseph Lascurain   Cincinnati
 
I really enjoyed this climb, but I think its the second pitch that makes the route. Maybe someone can explain when you are supposed to cut right from the right second pitch. I climbed this crack until it thinned to nothing and then took the run out chicken heads straight to the anchor, never traversed. Rapped twice to the ground. It was the run out face climbing combined with the first pitch that make this climb. Jul 17, 2012
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
After the 2nd pitch one may continue upward toward a interesting tunnel feature, followed by 2 seams where the leader will step to the left, and enter another tunnel. Exit this tunnel almost immediately, and climb horizontally ending at the anchors atop the last pitch of 'the Hook'. 1 60m rope will suffice for decent (4 raps) down the face of the buttress ending at the base of Bushwhack. Feb 15, 2011
We did the left variation of the second pitch. It was a really fun cruiser route. Towards the end of the pitch the crack ends and you have a bit of a runout, it's pretty easy. There is a set of chains, but they are somewhat hidden; traverse further to the right than you might think and you will find them. Jun 7, 2010
Miller
Salt Lake
Miller   Salt Lake
that darn squirrel claimed two more victims today. Watch your packs, and he/she likes sport drinks too! Ate through the zipper. Jul 21, 2009
i would highly recommend doing both pitches. if you climb the crack that goes right it gets thin at the top so bring some nut but then you can traverse over after the crack ends and there are plenty of places to set up a cam anchor. then down climb to the callitwhatyouplease anchors. May 26, 2009
George Vigeon
Bend, OR
  5.8
George Vigeon   Bend, OR
  5.8
It gets greasy when the temps hit around 85 and up. Getting your feet to the first chickenhead is the crux. .4, .5, .75, and a 2 camalot and maybe a set of smaller nuts. Lots o fun but gets crowded. There is a nut stuck right below the first bush. May 27, 2008
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.8
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.8
Crux was 15' off the ground for me, slippery feet to go over the slight bulge. Punch in a red alien, mash your feet in the crack and go for it. The rest of the 1st pitch is awesome. Cool moves starting from the ground instead of the big boulder Oct 15, 2007
Ouch my feet hurt... Oct 9, 2007
Ben Folsom  
 
Tony,

A good friend of mine put those anchors in quite a few years ago because the old belay (which was a bunch of webbing around one of the trees) was killing the tree and about to rip out. We were up there last year after climbing some routes on that cliff and were rapping off the bushwack belay. We both agreed that the anchors should have been placed about 10 feet or so higher on better rock.
By the way, it looks like you changed the chains that were up there and put in hangers/screw link/chains. Which is really nice, except for one of the bolts is a bit of a spinner.
In my opinion I agree that the belay should be placed higher in better rock. May 6, 2007
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Excellent crack! The bush/tree sucks! Sep 9, 2006
Harvey Miller
  5.8
Harvey Miller  
  5.8
I climbed this for the first time two days ago. I agree with one of the previous posts: on the second pitch, the left crack is better than the right crack. The right crack is nothing special, and also thins out about 2/3rds of the way up to a shallow outward flaring crack that was difficult to pro and then to a runout. Not a good combination. Left crack is fun, easy climbing. It pinches out at the top and there is a short runout to the chains, so get a piece or two in as high as possible. I found that a tri-cam worked well. Oct 3, 2005
Nathan Fisher
  5.8
Nathan Fisher  
  5.8
Did both pitches the other day, and whereas the second pitch isn't as hard or as consistent, or even the same style, it makes the climb a better route. There are 2 lines after the chains. The first and, IMHO, the better line is the left line. Step left out of the trees and continue up as the crack starts angling right. At the end of the crack, scamper up the runout but easy slab to a rap station (slings on a flake). Rap down to Callitwhatyouplease. The other line, can be climbed as Peter said, or continue up the runout but easy face. Either way a better Bushwhack, then just the 1st pitch. Apr 14, 2005
Matt Barrigar
  5.8
Matt Barrigar  
  5.8
This is an awesome climb. Classic LCC jam crack - a good intro to LCC. It isn't slippery or insecure if the rock isn't too hot. Go on a cool day, or in the morning. Sep 13, 2004
ROC
Englewood, CO
ROC   Englewood, CO
Did this one last spring break. Great climb for taking beginners on. It eats up pro. Apr 5, 2004
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8-
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.8-
I thought this was an awfully easy 5.8 There is really only one 5.8 move to get established and one more in a bulge up higher, but otherwise it is just good easy 5.7 Not as hard as Movie Variation and only slightly harder than Schoolroom Direct. Not continuous enough to get 3 stars from me, but good fun. Mar 29, 2004
I haven't climbed this but have also heard that it's hard and greasy. And that everyone loves it. Can't wait to try it out this summer! Mar 29, 2004
John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
I am not as enthusiastic about this route, however it is a good moderate option in the canyon. The first 20 feet of the first pitch were a bit slippery and insecure for my liking. It felt harder than 5.8, but climb it and gain confidence! Mar 28, 2004

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