Avg: 3.1 from 592 votes
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Bill Conrod, Paul Anderson, 1965|
|Page Views:||25,984 total · 121/month|
|Shared By:||Peter Gram on Mar 22, 2004|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
P1) 5.8 Climb the thin hands crack, passing the crux right off the deck. Continue up, with the crack turning to fists near the belay. The first pitch ends at a set of chain anchors and a small foot ledge. Many people rap at this point (one rope), but the second pitch is also pretty good.
P2) 5.7 Continue up the crack through the trees, angling right until a crack starts going straight up. Climb this (low angle) to a thin traverse at a chicken head. Continue easily to the right with a tree with anchors.
Descent) Downclimb 10 - 15 feet to a set of chain anchors on the face. Rap 100' down to the deck.