Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tingey, Reese, & Wood '62
Page Views: 24,346 total · 99/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Apr 24, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

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Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Tingey's Terror is another 5.7 route stacked on top of Tarzan. Lots of variations exist to this climb.

P1 & P2) Approach by Tarzan or Sweet Jane Variation.

P3) From the chain anchors, climb up and right through mostly easy terrain to an anchor in the trees or a gear anchor.

P4) From the tree anchor, climb up a shallow right facing corner, which eventually becomes big up higher. The lower portion of the crack lacks much gear, but is fairly easy. Stop at a set of chain anchors.

P5) Two major options. Traverse right a long ways across unprotected slab to a 3 bolt line which leads to a ledge (chain anchors). The other option is to climb the left side of the slab, requiring some gardening. Work into a right facing dihedral, then make an easy traverse to a set of anchors.

P6) There are 3 options for this pitch. I went up the left facing flake (fun 5.6) just to the left of the right set of anchors. Follow this up and right through lots of trees. Sling a tree for the belay.

P7 and beyond) From here, I think an exit pitch goes up and left, but I kept going on Tingey's Torture.

Descent) Continue up Tingey's Torture, or do the long bushy scramble over to the Schoolroom rappels.

Protection Suggest change

Standard Rack. I found aliens to be particularily useful. Also, there are a few bolts.