Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tingey, Reese, & Wood '62
Page Views: 19,365 total · 97/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Apr 24, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Tingey's Terror is another 5.7 route stacked on top of Tarzan. Lots of variations exist to this climb.

P1 & P2) Approach by Tarzan or Sweet Jane Variation.

P3) From the chain anchors, climb up and right through mostly easy terrain to an anchor in the trees or a gear anchor.

P4) From the tree anchor, climb up a shallow right facing corner, which eventually becomes big up higher. The lower portion of the crack lacks much gear, but is fairly easy. Stop at a set of chain anchors.

P5) Two major options. Traverse right a long ways across unprotected slab to a 3 bolt line which leads to a ledge (chain anchors). The other option is to climb the left side of the slab, requiring some gardening. Work into a right facing dihedral, then make an easy traverse to a set of anchors.

P6) There are 3 options for this pitch. I went up the left facing flake (fun 5.6) just to the left of the right set of anchors. Follow this up and right through lots of trees. Sling a tree for the belay.

P7 and beyond) From here, I think an exit pitch goes up and left, but I kept going on Tingey's Torture.

Descent) Continue up Tingey's Torture, or do the long bushy scramble over to the Schoolroom rappels.

Protection

Standard Rack. I found aliens to be particularily useful. Also, there are a few bolts.

Photos