Avg: 2.9 from 231 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Tingey, Reese, & Wood '62|
|Page Views:||19,365 total · 97/month|
|Shared By:||Peter Gram on Apr 24, 2004|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
P1 & P2) Approach by Tarzan or Sweet Jane Variation.
P3) From the chain anchors, climb up and right through mostly easy terrain to an anchor in the trees or a gear anchor.
P4) From the tree anchor, climb up a shallow right facing corner, which eventually becomes big up higher. The lower portion of the crack lacks much gear, but is fairly easy. Stop at a set of chain anchors.
P5) Two major options. Traverse right a long ways across unprotected slab to a 3 bolt line which leads to a ledge (chain anchors). The other option is to climb the left side of the slab, requiring some gardening. Work into a right facing dihedral, then make an easy traverse to a set of anchors.
P6) There are 3 options for this pitch. I went up the left facing flake (fun 5.6) just to the left of the right set of anchors. Follow this up and right through lots of trees. Sling a tree for the belay.
P7 and beyond) From here, I think an exit pitch goes up and left, but I kept going on Tingey's Torture.
Descent) Continue up Tingey's Torture, or do the long bushy scramble over to the Schoolroom rappels.