Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tingey, Reese, & Wood '62
Page Views: 16,692 total · 92/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Apr 24, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


Tingey's Terror is another 5.7 route stacked on top of Tarzan. Lots of variations exist to this climb.

P1 & P2) Approach by Tarzan or Sweet Jane Variation.

P3) From the chain anchors, climb up and right through mostly easy terrain to an anchor in the trees or a gear anchor.

P4) From the tree anchor, climb up a shallow right facing corner, which eventually becomes big up higher. The lower portion of the crack lacks much gear, but is fairly easy. Stop at a set of chain anchors.

P5) Two major options. Traverse right a long ways across unprotected slab to a 3 bolt line which leads to a ledge (chain anchors). The other option is to climb the left side of the slab, requiring some gardening. Work into a right facing dihedral, then make an easy traverse to a set of anchors.

P6) There are 3 options for this pitch. I went up the left facing flake (fun 5.6) just to the left of the right set of anchors. Follow this up and right through lots of trees. Sling a tree for the belay.

P7 and beyond) From here, I think an exit pitch goes up and left, but I kept going on Tingey's Torture.

Descent) Continue up Tingey's Torture, or do the long bushy scramble over to the Schoolroom rappels.


Standard Rack. I found aliens to be particularily useful. Also, there are a few bolts.
Nathan Fisher
St George
Nathan Fisher   St George  
Pitch 4 has a variation that climbs up the steep face into a thin crack and meets up with the bolted variation of pitch 5 Apr 26, 2004
Nathan Fisher
St George
Nathan Fisher   St George  
"The book" claims a piton in a crack on pitch 5. Couldnt't find it, also the pitch 4 variation is stated to have a bolt, we couldn't see it, but we may have missed it. Also, the anchors at the top of pitch 5 "Fudd Ledge" have multiplied, as there is one set right at the face crux on the left variation, and one just to the left of the beginning of pitch 6 right-most variation. Apr 26, 2004
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
On pitch 3, we climbed a fun 5.7 layback ramp and then headed right to the tree. Pitches 3 & 4 can be combined if you use long runners on the lower section.

On pitch 6, we headed straight up, climbing a left-facing flake, a finger crack, and past the right side of a roof to a sling anchor at a small tree. From here, we rappelled the route to get down. The rappel from the small tree was slightly longer than 30m; we had to be VERY careful getting down to the bolt anchor below with a 60m rope. Two ropes (or a 70m rope) would be much safer. Oct 19, 2004
Nathan Fisher
St George
Nathan Fisher   St George  
Climbed this again, this time from the Fudd Ledge, we took the left line about 5.8 with a little tricky protection down low, and crossed into the 2nd from the left line. Got to a belay bush, with two bolts above us. Climbed the slab past those 2 bolts and a lost screw-link. Up slabs and flakes to another bolt on a face just below a belay ledge. Also, the route to get to Fudd ledge is the exposed runout but easy traverse over and up to the anchors. Just like Outside Corner on JHCOB wall, this is why you are doing this route. Don't cheat yourself. Mar 14, 2005
Nathan Fisher
St George
Nathan Fisher   St George  
Did the P3/P4 variation today. Start the flake system, but only go a bit before looking up and seeing a black streaked slab, with a slot at the top in dark rock. Run it out and I mean run it out up this fun and relatively easy slab. This is probably 5.8. Once you get to the slot, you pop onto the ledge and join P4 (The slab traverse).
Protect in the flake well with runners, because that is the last gear you will have for a bit. The book shows a bolt. It is not there. The slot can use a Red Metolius and a #1 Camalot. Then 3 draws more for the slab above.

If you have done the slab traverse already, this makes for a very fun variation..... In other words do it. Jul 7, 2006
Nathan Fisher
St George
Nathan Fisher   St George  
On Pitch 6, I did a fun variation. The left most crack (the Right-facer that Ron Olsen mentioned), just right of the left anchors off of Fudd. Layback, and jam up this, make a slab move or two left, off of the hollow flake (watch your gear), and continue up the wider right facer, aiming for the right of the roof. Traverse under the roof (a bit rice-y). Small gear for the initial crack, larger gear for the second crack, and runners or you will pay. 2 chains.
After the chains, move left around the roof, and up the slab to a bolt, angle up and right past another bolt. Continue up and right. Step up onto the next slab with tow bolts. You will be traversing 20 feet below a headwall with a chain anchor. Clip these 2 bolts and climb past the tree-filled gully. Look for the hard to find bolt/pin (lol) anchor.

5.9 is what the book says. I felt 5.7 maybe easy 5.8. Jul 7, 2006
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
I think the 5.7 friction pitch, the one that clips three bolts and ends up at Fudd Ledge, may be the best 5.7 friction slab in LCC. Highlight of the route, to be sure. Oct 24, 2006
glen kaplan
Salt Lake City, UT
glen kaplan   Salt Lake City, UT
I dunno...we just did it today (5/1/07) as an approach to the Flakes (lots to say about that route)...and we saw two anchors from Fudd Ledge. The left anchor isn't actually on the ledge but 10 to 15'left...I've done all the variations from this ledge now and keep coming back to the right most line (since it links up the best with the upper pitches)but I do like going slightly left from the right anchors too...if you look closely up and left from Fudd, you can see another set of chains about 80 ft. up w/ some bolts up and left of these (the middle variation)...
At the top of this right variation (usually p3 for me since I link 1&2 and 3&4) you end up with two options
a) sling tree and go left into easy gully, continue up to obvious ledges w/ either gear anchor or funky old pin and bolt anchor
b) sling tree and walk ledge to right to awesome hanging/ledge anchor w/o chains...continue up crack/arete/face past 2 bolts to funky anchor in var (a).

ima gonna get some detailed photos next time up... May 1, 2007
Justin Lofthouse   Utah
A while ago my friend and I did this route. After pitch 6 we anchored at the trees and then went for pitch 7. I traversed left and then found some fixed anchors, the travese was really short. Then I climbed up this dihedral that had this pillar type feature about 15 feet up. Then it went up left over this ledge and I built an anchor in a crack I could stand in. From there I think we could have scambled down this chimney and gotten to the scramble to Schoolroom reppell, but we kept going, up this dirty diheral and finally to some trees. I am just wondering if we got off track, and if anybody has done this section, where do we go to get to schoolroom reppel? Thanaks Jul 4, 2007
A little history here. The original 2nd pitch of Tingey's Terror did not traverse out right on the classic bolt protected face. It went straight up to a right slanting bulge/roof, then traversed straight right along a cool foot ledge to it's end. From here, a few quality face moves take you up and right to Fudd Ledge.

The original party, in 1962 (R. Tingey, R. Reese and D. Wood) did not place any bolts on their ascent.

The more popular, classic bolted face used to only have 2 protection bolts on it.

In the 60's & 70's many variations were climbed. Jul 7, 2007
Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Sir Camsalot   thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Someone placed three new rap stations on the walkoff to the schoolroom raps and disguised it as a 5.2 route (with lots of bolts between stations). Kind of an eyesore IMO to see a bunch of bolts and chains all over up there on such easy ground. I know the walk off sucks...but its not THAT bad.

That last rap could use some work as well. Someone removed the chains leaving a couple rusty old bolts with a single link on each. Wouldn't be too bad as-is if the bolts weren't placed so far from each other.

Would make a good community service project due to its heavy use. Jul 11, 2008
Salt Lake City, UT
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
The "newer" OVER bolted crap above schoolroom is BS and should of been removed years ago IMO.. Aug 16, 2010
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
Comment thread about retro-bolted anchor moved here. Oct 6, 2010
Nathaniel Holt
Salt Lake City, Utah
Nathaniel Holt   Salt Lake City, Utah
The traverse is fun! I noticed when I got to the belay anchors of that pitch (I think its 4, but for me it was 3 since I linked 1 & 2) there were chains up about 70ish ft and to the west, which made it look like if one wanted to skip the traverse and head strait up to the bulge protect in that crack and head up a crack west of the anchors I ended at a possibility. Has anyone done this? Whats the climbing like? Jun 21, 2012
The post before my comments were just deleted. Bascially what the person before me said in regards to the 2nd pitch was: "How can a scary 50' traverse with no protection be called a classic".

It's classic because of history and the mental challenge. The first ascent party, who were in hiking boots, basically went from stance to stance without protection. Bolts were harder to place back then. Routes in general used more natural protection...whatever the rock had to offer. In 1976 I timidly shook my way up that pitch, which had less bolts on it than now. Being able to handle the runnouts was a real confidence builder for me. It's mind skill, something that helped me progress gradually to the bigger mountains. It's nice to still have a few traditional routes/pitches that look the same way the first ascent party found them. None of the bolt stations on this route were there during the late 70's and perhaps early 80's. All belays were done with gear. There are plenty of well protected bolted routes all ready in the Wasatch. Sep 19, 2012
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
Nah, doesn't have much to do with ego. We all got some.

Its an easy, fairly straightforward traverse (most all nearly hands free with good, solid feet). There's a lot of unprotected climbing out there. And, the rock doesn't care how big or small your ego is.

Ralph mentioned awhile back that he took his daughter up the route and they both really enjoyed it. Said they clipped the bolts and thought it was great.

Its kinda all about gettin' out and havin' fun. If an easy, straightforward but unprotected slab traverse on a classic route isn't fun for ya, well, then maybe you need to examine why for yourself, and, not put it on others' egos. Sep 19, 2012
Less about ego and more about:
Respect of history
Respect of FA ethics
Stepping up and not dumbing down
Rising to the challenge
Learning about and bettering ourselves
Becoming stronger
Gaining confidence

It's about climbing

Not alot of ego to be gained on a < 5.0 traverse

Ken, you may want to reconsider some of your to-do list if you did not care for this traverse or the run out.

Have fun,
Dale Sep 19, 2012
user id
user id   SMOGden, UT
Posted in response to that uncultured twat who wrote, then cowardly deleted: "How can a scary 50' traverse with no protection be called a classic".

Climbing makes some people scared and mad.
They should take up other activities. I hear golf
is pretty classic? Sep 19, 2012
if only tingey, wood, and reese knew how to rap bolt? Sep 20, 2012
Josh Allred
Salt Lake City, UT
Josh Allred   Salt Lake City, UT
I was down in Ouray, CO this weekend and ran into the one and only Ralph Tingey. I asked him about the gear he had for the FA. He told me he had about 3 pitons and "climbing" boots. I also asked him if he minded the bolts on the route. First, he said that he has never placed a bolt in his life. Second, he said he loved the bolts on the route. "About 15 years ago, I went up with my daughter and loved clipping into them." Finally, he told me don't believe anyone that tells you about how I fell on the route. "I was out 15 ft and pendulumed into the rock. Woods had me on a hip belay and manage to catch me." Afterwards, I met Jim Donini, famous for FA on Torre Egger. Both of them took the time to give me a couple pointers and were proud of the fact between them they had over 100 years of climbing experience. 70 years old and still climbing! What hard men. Jan 19, 2014
Tapas   Utah
The Terror traverse seems more like 30 feet... 30 sweet feet. Sweet for the second as well. Sep 10, 2015
If anyone is going up or has gone up Tingey's Terror in LCC and you happen to find some locking carabiners, please let me know. On Saturday, I was a dumbass and left my partner's silver petzl locking carabiners at the anchors between pitch 2 and 3 (I think but could be wrong). Would love to have them back and will be forever grateful and will pay with a 6 pack/bottle/other beverage of choice. Thanks! deanna.irene.mitchell@gmail.com Jun 18, 2018
Brock Jones
Provo, UT
Brock Jones   Provo, UT
Everything before and after the terror traverse is kinda meh for me, but the terror traverse is absolutely a 4 star pitch. Probably harder than 5.7, probably warrants a pg-13 or even r rating (never seen anyone fall before getting to the first bolt but I can only imagine the windshield wiper swing into the dihedral below would be unpleasant) but man it's so good and wish it was at least twice as long! Run out friction slabs are a great way to spice up your life. Oct 5, 2018