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Prune Face Slab Rock Climbing

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Routes in Prune Face Slab

L › R R › L A › Z

	Born Again T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Connor's Playground T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Dingo Bite, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Iron Grit T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	Iron Grit Variation T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Prayukta T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Prune Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Shuffleboard T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Straight On For You S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Swing Set, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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GPS:	40.57274, -111.75377 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Vince Romney on Jun 23, 2004
Admins:	Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

A 100', moderately featured slab direclty downslope from the Five Fingers area of the Gate Buttress. The five-minute approach makes it the shortest approach on the Gate. The slab has five routes primarily consisting of classic slab climbing with the occasional groove thrown in for good measure. The slab maintains a good angle over it's entire length and the moderate routes are relatively sustained, if not a bit under rated. The top of the slab has a belay setup with one chain and one large hanger. I'll work on improving this, as it tends to create excessive friction when retrieving the rope.

Getting There

From the Gate Buttress boulders, follow the Schoolroom approach for about 50 yards. At the first option to fork right (north), head up slope directly towards the Five Fingers area. Do not succomb to the temptation to head right towards the dihedrals approach, but stay on a relatively straight "uphill" path. As you encounter the beginnings of the buttress formation itself, then move up and left along the base for about 100' and you'll come to the base of Prune Face.