Prune Face Slab Rock Climbing
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GPS: |
40.57274, -111.75377 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 10,601 total · 42/month |
Shared By: | Vince Romney on Jun 23, 2004 |
Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
A 100', moderately featured slab direclty downslope from the Five Fingers area of the Gate Buttress. The five-minute approach makes it the shortest approach on the Gate. The slab has five routes primarily consisting of classic slab climbing with the occasional groove thrown in for good measure. The slab maintains a good angle over it's entire length and the moderate routes are relatively sustained, if not a bit under rated. The top of the slab has a belay setup with one chain and one large hanger. I'll work on improving this, as it tends to create excessive friction when retrieving the rope.
Getting There
From the Gate Buttress boulders, follow the Schoolroom approach for about 50 yards. At the first option to fork right (north), head up slope directly towards the Five Fingers area. Do not succomb to the temptation to head right towards the dihedrals approach, but stay on a relatively straight "uphill" path. As you encounter the beginnings of the buttress formation itself, then move up and left along the base for about 100' and you'll come to the base of Prune Face.
Classic Climbing Routes at Prune Face Slab
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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