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Routes in Prune Face Slab

Born Again T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Connor's Playground T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dingo Bite, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Iron Grit T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Iron Grit Variation T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Prayukta T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Prune Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Shuffleboard T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Straight On For You S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Swing Set, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: Calderone, Dutschi, Oliver
Page Views: 97 total, 1/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 1, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

The left bolted line on the slab, Iron Grit has a fun bolt 1 to 2 sequence that is nice but too short. Otherwise it is still a nice climb as it follows Prune Face's finish.

Protection

3 draws for the bolts and 2 .75? camalots for the upper grooves. chains up top.
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.11a R
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.11a R
The sequence through the crux has some really interesting movement with some serious friction. The route eases up considerably after the 2nd bolt and makes for a nice cruiser.
The bolts are fairly spaced and the upper runout is really hard to justify on a route that was obviously not bolted on lead. Doesn't matter if it's easy, there are no extra style points for artificially creating a R-rated route on rappel. May 24, 2009
Vince Romney
  5.11a
Vince Romney  
  5.11a
The first couple of moves off the starting chicken-head are the crux (although well protected by the first bolt). It eases up shortly after passing the first bolt, but remains engaging until the third bolt, where it rolls into 5.6/5.7. Personally, I think the crux moves are actually a little harder than Cheetah (also rated 5.11a). Jun 13, 2005