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Routes in Prune Face Slab

Born Again T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Connor's Playground T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dingo Bite, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Iron Grit T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Iron Grit Variation T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Prayukta T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Prune Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Shuffleboard T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Straight On For You S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Swing Set, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Drew Bedford, Conrad Anker
Page Views: 184 total · 1/month
Shared By: Vince Romney on Jun 21, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This route ascends the right side of the slab to the mid-point, then traverses along the small roof to the left side and follows grooves to the top. The start of Prune Face is shared with Straight On For You. Climb the groove up to clip the first bolt. Surmount the steep section with thin moves, and then begin the fun. Don't slip right before the third bolt. After passing the third bolt, achieve the stance below the mid-point "roof", and shuffle left (you can place a small TCO here) to the obvious grooves. Climb the much easier grooves to the belay anchor, placing small cams and stoppers along the way. A fun climb, particularly because of the nice, short approach.

Protection

3 bolts, small cams, and medium to large nuts.

Photos

Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.10a
Nathan Fisher   St George  
  5.10a
A good route, the eae of the upper grooves detracts. It looked like 2 (.75) cams would protect the grooves. The only part of this route that differs from Straight on for You, the upper face, is pretty easy. Sep 2, 2004
Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.10a
Nathan Fisher   St George  
  5.10a
I think we are rating it harder due to the bouldery 5.10 move to mount the face. The slab above is 5.9, but that initial move is the tough one. Thanks for the info on the correct line of Prune Face. Jul 7, 2006
Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.10a R
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.10a R
Ahh, that explains it. The beginning felt a lot harder than 5.9! Although you can make it easier by using the tree :-) Dec 24, 2010

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