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Routes in Prune Face Slab

Born Again T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Connor's Playground T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dingo Bite, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Iron Grit T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Iron Grit Variation T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Prayukta T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Prune Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Shuffleboard T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Straight On For You S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Swing Set, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tony & Connor Calderone
Page Views: 221 total, 16/month
Shared By: Scott Morris on Oct 17, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

P1 - 5.6 Begin the climb just below and left of the large, dark grey patch that is roughly 12 feet up. Continue up until you spot the first bolt maybe 20 feet up in between two bushes and follow the line of bolts until you reach the chain anchor, supplementing the spaced-out bolts with a couple of medium cam placements until you reach a chain anchor.

P2 - 5.9 From the anchor, continue up and left finding the path of least resistance on the left side through the roof feature, and then traverse right until you can clip the bolt. Easy climbing here, but a fall would be bad. A #4 Camalot worked nicely to offer some protection as you surmount the roof and traverse to the bolt. Once the bolt is clipped, climb upwards towards the large horizontal crack (#3 Camalot) and the 2nd bolt visible above this crack. A few chicken heads and friction moves take you to a reasonable ledge from which you'll spot the anchors off to the left. For me the crux was the last move or two right at the top when the second bolt is at your feet.

Location

Located roughly 25 yards west of Shuffleboard and Prune Face Slab. A nice flat base is directly below the route.

Protection

P1 - 4 bolts, medium sized cams (0.75 - 2 Camalot), 2 bolt anchor.

P2 - 2 bolts, #3 Camalot, #4 Camalot, 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Oscar Wheeler
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Oscar Wheeler   Salt Lake City, UT
 
First pitch is really easy climbing. Beginning is a little run out if you go to the first bolt.

The second pitch was interesting. I think the new LCC book puts it at a 5.9? Getting onto the upper face isn't as bad as I thought and the traverse to the first bolt was no problem. A BD #3 was extremely useful in the horizontal crack below the second bolt. A fall without the # 3 would likely result in some pain. It is just some fun slab climbing to the top once you get to the second bolt. May 19, 2017