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> Prune Face Slab
Connor's Playground
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 1.4 from 8
votes
Routes in Prune Face Slab
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Born Again T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Connor's Playground T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dingo Bite, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Iron Grit T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Iron Grit Variation T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Prayukta T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Prune Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Shuffleboard T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Straight On For You S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Swing Set, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Tony & Connor Calderone |
| Page Views: | 1,067 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Scott Morris on Oct 17, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
P1 - 5.6 Begin the climb just below and left of the large, dark grey patch that is roughly 12 feet up. Continue up until you spot the first bolt maybe 20 feet up in between two bushes and follow the line of bolts until you reach the chain anchor, supplementing the spaced-out bolts with a couple of medium cam placements until you reach a chain anchor.
P2 - 5.9 From the anchor, continue up and left finding the path of least resistance on the left side through the roof feature, and then traverse right until you can clip the bolt. Easy climbing here, but a fall would be bad. A #4 Camalot worked nicely to offer some protection as you surmount the roof and traverse to the bolt. Once the bolt is clipped, climb upwards towards the large horizontal crack (#3 Camalot) and the 2nd bolt visible above this crack. A few chicken heads and friction moves take you to a reasonable ledge from which you'll spot the anchors off to the left. For me the crux was the last move or two right at the top when the second bolt is at your feet.
P2 - 5.9 From the anchor, continue up and left finding the path of least resistance on the left side through the roof feature, and then traverse right until you can clip the bolt. Easy climbing here, but a fall would be bad. A #4 Camalot worked nicely to offer some protection as you surmount the roof and traverse to the bolt. Once the bolt is clipped, climb upwards towards the large horizontal crack (#3 Camalot) and the 2nd bolt visible above this crack. A few chicken heads and friction moves take you to a reasonable ledge from which you'll spot the anchors off to the left. For me the crux was the last move or two right at the top when the second bolt is at your feet.
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