Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Tony Calderone, Dan Giovale
Page Views: 265 total · 1/month
Shared By: Vince Romney on Jun 21, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

20 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


This climb ascends the right side of the slab. Start on the first half of "Prune Face", then follow the bolts continuing straight up the slab at the small overhang instead of traversing right. The first section is amazing, especially considering it was originally done with only one bolt! Thin moves up a groove and over the steep section at the begining place you on the slab proper. From the stance above the first bolt, move up thin slab climbing with the occasional solid hold thrown in. You don't want to be falling right before the third bolt. Once attaining the stance below the small "roof", clip the fourth bolt and start up continuous slab moves to the 8th bolt. I angled left here to the belay station instead of moving up to clip the last bolt. All in all, quite the entertaining moderate slab climb.


8 bolts (9 if you clip the final bolt rather than traverse to the anchors.


Vince Romney
Vince Romney  
Forgot to add... The Ruckman guide has this rated at 5.8. After doing this I thought my slab technique had gone to hell if it was 5.8. It is actually around 5.9+, and I confirmed this with one of the first ascent party. It was mis-reported to the guide book. Great slab climb with interesting moves. Well worth the 5 minute approach! Also, the belay anchor currently has a spinner. I'll see if I can repair that this weekend. Jun 24, 2004
Nathan Fisher
St George
Nathan Fisher   St George  
Not a 5.8. I would settle on 5.10a. A bouldery beginning, and then some serious face climbing until you attain the ledge. Runout from bolt 3 to 4, which seemed to me to be the crux. The upper face eases up. Extremely exciting slab. Sep 2, 2004
Ryan Brough
Arvada, Colorado
  5.10a PG13
Ryan Brough   Arvada, Colorado
  5.10a PG13
Must do slab route! Bolt #1 is a spinner. I backed it up with a grey TCU in the shallow crack just to the right. There is about 20 feet of runout between bolts #3 and #4. The slab crux is right in between them, so don't fall. I slipped, but miraculously caught myself. This is the most mentally challenging lead I have done to date, largely due to the scaly, flaky nature of the rock. Aug 18, 2006
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
I did this route a few years ago and up until just now thought that it was one of the hardest "5.8" climbs around. Good to know that I wasn't the only one who thought it was harder... I nearly peed my pants. Great climb, though. A fall would be pretty eventful... Nov 17, 2008
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.9+ R
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.9+ R
Fun commiting boulder problem of the start (easy 10) then a lot of mandatory keep-it-together climbing until the 4th clip (old school 9+ slab). Mellow after that with thank god grooves here and there.
This route deserves an R. You won't deck if you blow it between the 2nd and 3rd bolt but you're in for a serious slam and some lost skin. Same goes for the runout between 3rd and 4th.
Starting off the tree is considerably harder and a small piece might come in handy.
Looks like it was bolted on lead, proud work! May 24, 2009
  5.9+ R
  5.9+ R
I took a weird variation off right then tried to come back left and got stuck on a 20 foot runout in no man's land. My only options were to take the fall w/o tring to make the 4th clip or to fall trying. In my top three most freaked out climbing experiences I've ever had. I ended up pulling through and keeping my cool but seriously....scary and as a result so so soooo freakin fun. Great route! Oct 19, 2009
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a R
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10a R
The start moves are the crux - 9+/10a. Bold from there especially between bolt 2 & 3 where you would get hurt if you fell, and bolt 3 & 4 where its a bit runnout. Classic Little Cottonwood slab at a moderate grade - good warmup for the harder lines to work on slab technique, runouts and remaining calm. Mar 29, 2012
Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Sir Camsalot   thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Fun climb with a nice, bouldery start thats protected nicely with a red TCU.

I always thought it was funny that Conrad Anker was credited with the FA of Prune Face (sans bolts) and in the Ruckman guide they state something to the effect of "Prune Face is a bold route but the start was unfortunately bolted by a later party." The next climb it lists is Strait on For You with the FA info...guess who??!!! Even funnier that there is photographic evidence. At least he retrobolted it on lead
Mar 30, 2012