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Routes in Beckey's Wall Area

"Elementary My Dear Watson" T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
3rd Crack Over T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Axis of Evil Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beckey's Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cheetah T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Date With Kate T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Date with Fate T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fingertrip Variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Fruit Loops T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Hesitate No More T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Hesitation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Needle's Eye Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Orange Sling, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pebbles and Bambam S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shaken Climber Syndrome S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Siesta T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Split Decision T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Split Fingers T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Split Pants T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Jane Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tarzan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tingey's Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tingey's Terror T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tingey's Torture T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:

Description

The section of the large Gate Buttress that is just to the right of the Dihedrals Area is the Beckey's Wall area.

The starts to some great moderate routes reside here, including the popular, eponymous classic Beckey's Wall (5.7) and Tarzan (5.10a). Tarzan can also be linked up with Tingey's Terror and Tingey's Torture to make one of the longest routes in the area (~11 pitches).
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Getting There

Park at the Gate Buttress parking area 1.25 miles up the canyon. Take the trail that passes the Gate Boulder, heading straight north from the road.

A good trail climbs up to rock below the Dihedrals Area. Follow the trail right along the base a short distance, then scramble up slick third-class slabs to a ledge system and the start of the climbs.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Beckey's Wall Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
BigNobody
all over, mostly Utah
BigNobody   all over, mostly Utah
Lets see......Rap off roots, or trust my downclimbing abilty. Oh yeah, downclimbing isn't something the kids do these days. Roots it is. Jun 10, 2016
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
The chances of your slings/locking biner staying there for any length of time are 0. Jun 9, 2016
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
Don't take Zoso's bearish comments personally...like many of us, 90% of the time he is easing the pains of a work day and/or boring existence. The other 10% of the time he's adding content -you know "for the community". Climbing is dangerous and everyone has a different risk tolerance...your's may be lower than most. Jun 8, 2016
What are you contributing to this discussion Zoso? I stand by my comment and would have loved to see a more detailed comment describing the approach here before coming to climb at the area and hope to help others with the same concerns. Jun 8, 2016
zoso  
Harder than Becky's?! Nah.

It's really not bad although one certainly has to be careful.

Remember folks, climbing is dangerous. And skeery.


Although I have to admit, I don't miss the "slippery layback" approach that used to be in the area. That was far worse than this. Jun 8, 2016
Tyler Needham
Salt Lake City, Utah
Tyler Needham   Salt Lake City, Utah
He's not trolling. See Lee's comment above. If you were a new 5.7 leader coming up to climb Beckey's, it's an intimidating bit of climbing (harder than anything on the first pitch of Beckey's). Lowering isn't a bad idea either. Jun 8, 2016
zoso  
You're trolling, right? Jun 7, 2016
The approach is definitely fifth class, being well traveled and worn the rock is incredibly slick in areas and approach (or climbing shoes) are recommended. As the guide suggests, you must scramble up to a ledge system and then traverse across. The scramble is 5th class, but very easy, and while the ledge system is an easy traverse, a single slip could have major consequence. Once you've gotten up it, access to the climbs is relatively easy. However, getting down is another matter. Both the ledge system and the scramble are incredibly treacherous to down climb. In my opinion, you have two solid options:

The first belay station of becky's wall would make for a good repel station assuming you have two 70m Ropes.

(What we ended up doing) There is a solid root system with two trees near the ledge at the end of the traverse. My partner and I set up a decent anchor on these trees using slings and a locking biner and left it behind. Please do not take these, so you and others may use them to repel from this area. And of course, be sure to double check the health of the slings and biner before repelling.

TL;DR: Bring two 70m Ropes, and be ready for a tough/semi-technical approach, or hope that no one takes the repel anchor we set up at the base of the climb. Be safe out there! Jun 7, 2016
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
Thanks, James. I took the liberty of putting your comment and the relevant portion of the letter (edited for capitalization and punctuation) in a "History" section under the Beckey's Wall description. Nov 29, 2007
This is a letter from Fred recently about the FA of Beckey's Wall. I thought it deserved to be saved and pasted here. The guy has unlimited energy, no question about that. This does clear up any of the previous dispute about fixed gear originally placed on this climb. I think it is great for the record:

HELLO YES I DID THE ROUTE WITH ROSLYN STEWART THE GUIDEBOOK PEOPLE SURE ARE SLOW GETTING IT CHANGED I KNOW ERIC B TOLD THEM MORE THAN ONCE WE DID NOT PLACE A BOLT ANYWHERE LIKELY WE RAPPPED FROM PITONS OR TREES ? MY GUESS IS THAT WE DID IT IN 2 PITCHES I HAVE A SHOT ON THE CLIMB, LOOKING DOWN A POOR BUT VISIBLE PHOTO
ACROSS THE CANYON YES KOR AND I DID SOMETHING I THHINK THE BOOK PROB HAS IT RIGHT

THINKING OF MAYBE GOING ARAPOLES IN OCTOBER

------------------------
LET ME KNOW
IF YOU KNOW THE G-BOOK AUTHOR, GIVE HIM THE WORD

ps I WONDER WHAT THE UNABOMBER'S E MAIL IS??? I COULD SEND HIM AN E MAIL AND TELL HIM I USED HIS NAME IN CONNECTION WITH A WEIRDO
CHEERS BECKEY Nov 29, 2007
Ahhh ... nothing quite like a 15-foot 5th class boulder problem, followed by a traverse with consequences -- all disguised as "4th class," in classic LCC understatement. As someone once told me, "in Little Cottonwood, anything less than 5.6 is considered 4th class." Some of the more wary among us might actually choose to protect that scramble and traverse, and even be lowered by our bolder partners. Aug 31, 2006

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