Type: Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches
FA: Lenny Nelson and Jim Booth - fall 1964
Page Views: 9,001 total · 37/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Apr 24, 2004 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

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Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The Sweet Jane Variation follows most of the route Tarzan (5.10a). Start this climb by first approaching to Becky's Wall. Traverse 3rd class slabs right to a couple of bolts next to each other. This is the start to Tarzan.

P1) To climb the Sweet Jane Var, start right of the bolts in a 5.7 crack. Follow this only a short ways, until it is possible to step left into the Tarzan crack. Then follow this crack to a 2-bolt anchor.

P2) Continue up the crack, soon encountering two cracks paralleling each other on the upper face. Start in the left crack, then switch to the right when possible. Follow this up to a set of chain anchors.

Descent) Lots of choices!1. Rappel using 2-ropes back to the base.2. 2 one rope rappels3. Continue up a short ways to the right, then scramble down. I haven't done this, so I am not sure how easy it is.4. If you have time, do Tingey's Terror (and optionally Tingey's Torture) for more good pitches of climbing.

Protection Suggest change

Standard Rack. Mostly the gear is finger and small hand sized.