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Routes in Beckey's Wall Area

"Elementary My Dear Watson" T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
3rd Crack Over T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Axis of Evil Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beckey's Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cheetah T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Date With Kate T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Date with Fate T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fingertrip Variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Fruit Loops T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Hesitate No More T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Hesitation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Needle's Eye Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Orange Sling, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pebbles and Bambam S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shaken Climber Syndrome S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Siesta T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Split Decision T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Split Fingers T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Split Pants T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Jane Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tarzan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tingey's Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tingey's Terror T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tingey's Torture T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,569 total, 34/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Apr 24, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

The Sweet Jane Variation follows most of the route Tarzan (5.10a). Start this climb by first approaching to Becky's Wall. Traverse 3rd class slabs right to a couple of bolts next to each other. This is the start to Tarzan.

P1) To climb the Sweet Jane Var, start right of the bolts in a 5.7 crack. Follow this only a short ways, until it is possible to step left into the Tarzan crack. Then follow this crack to a 2-bolt anchor.

P2) Continue up the crack, soon encountering two cracks paralleling each other on the upper face. Start in the left crack, then switch to the right when possible. Follow this up to a set of chain anchors.

Descent) Lots of choices!1. Rappel using 2-ropes back to the base.2. 2 one rope rappels3. Continue up a short ways to the right, then scramble down. I haven't done this, so I am not sure how easy it is.4. If you have time, do Tingey's Terror (and optionally Tingey's Torture) for more good pitches of climbing.

Protection

Standard Rack. Mostly the gear is finger and small hand sized.
Thumer
SLC, UT
 
Thumer   SLC, UT
 
We did this route as an approach to Tingey's Terror. We got rained out once we got up to Tingey's, but I thought this was really fun route even by itself. Oct 17, 2015
lunabloomgirl
North East Washington
 
lunabloomgirl   North East Washington
 
Fun crack. Good for small hands! Aug 26, 2010
Jason Billings
Draper, UT
  5.7
Jason Billings   Draper, UT
  5.7
Easy to set gear on.This was my first trad and first lead (pitch 2). Also a great way to setup a toprope for Cheetah pitch 2 if you want to practice some great friction climbing. Mar 13, 2005
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.7
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.7
The route can easily be climbed in one pitch. A few extra finger-to-hand-sized cams are useful if you do this. The crux is at the starting corner. Oct 19, 2004
Nathan Fisher
  5.7
Nathan Fisher  
  5.7
Pitch 2 has 1 piton in the upper crack Apr 26, 2004