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> Little Cottonwo…
> Gate Buttress
> Beckey's Wall Area
Sweet Jane Variation
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.5 from 205
votes
Routes in Beckey's Wall Area
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"Elementary Dear Watson" T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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3rd Crack Over T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Axis of Evil Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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baloney on white T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Beckey's Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cheetah T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Date with Fate T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Date With Kate T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X |
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East of Eden T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Fingertrip Variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Fruit Loops T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Fudd Ledge Left Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hesitate No More T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R |
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Hesitation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Independent Streak T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Last Caress T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Last Caress, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Needle's Eye Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Orange Sling, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Pebbles and Bambam S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Shaken Climber Syndrome S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Siesta T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Split Decision T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Split Fingers T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Split Pants T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sweet Jane Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tarzan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tingey's Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tingey's Terror T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tingey's Torture T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tourist Variation (Split Pants) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Watergate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Weapons of Mass Destruction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Lenny Nelson and Jim Booth - fall 1964 |
| Page Views: | 9,031 total · 36/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Gram on Apr 24, 2004 · Updates |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
The Sweet Jane Variation follows most of the route Tarzan (5.10a). Start this climb by first approaching to Becky's Wall. Traverse 3rd class slabs right to a couple of bolts next to each other. This is the start to Tarzan.
P1) To climb the Sweet Jane Var, start right of the bolts in a 5.7 crack. Follow this only a short ways, until it is possible to step left into the Tarzan crack. Then follow this crack to a 2-bolt anchor.
P2) Continue up the crack, soon encountering two cracks paralleling each other on the upper face. Start in the left crack, then switch to the right when possible. Follow this up to a set of chain anchors.
Descent) Lots of choices!1. Rappel using 2-ropes back to the base.2. 2 one rope rappels3. Continue up a short ways to the right, then scramble down. I haven't done this, so I am not sure how easy it is.4. If you have time, do Tingey's Terror (and optionally Tingey's Torture) for more good pitches of climbing.
P1) To climb the Sweet Jane Var, start right of the bolts in a 5.7 crack. Follow this only a short ways, until it is possible to step left into the Tarzan crack. Then follow this crack to a 2-bolt anchor.
P2) Continue up the crack, soon encountering two cracks paralleling each other on the upper face. Start in the left crack, then switch to the right when possible. Follow this up to a set of chain anchors.
Descent) Lots of choices!1. Rappel using 2-ropes back to the base.2. 2 one rope rappels3. Continue up a short ways to the right, then scramble down. I haven't done this, so I am not sure how easy it is.4. If you have time, do Tingey's Terror (and optionally Tingey's Torture) for more good pitches of climbing.
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