Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,128 total · 34/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Apr 24, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


The Sweet Jane Variation follows most of the route Tarzan (5.10a). Start this climb by first approaching to Becky's Wall. Traverse 3rd class slabs right to a couple of bolts next to each other. This is the start to Tarzan.

P1) To climb the Sweet Jane Var, start right of the bolts in a 5.7 crack. Follow this only a short ways, until it is possible to step left into the Tarzan crack. Then follow this crack to a 2-bolt anchor.

P2) Continue up the crack, soon encountering two cracks paralleling each other on the upper face. Start in the left crack, then switch to the right when possible. Follow this up to a set of chain anchors.

Descent) Lots of choices!1. Rappel using 2-ropes back to the base.2. 2 one rope rappels3. Continue up a short ways to the right, then scramble down. I haven't done this, so I am not sure how easy it is.4. If you have time, do Tingey's Terror (and optionally Tingey's Torture) for more good pitches of climbing.


Standard Rack. Mostly the gear is finger and small hand sized.


Nathan Fisher
St George
Nathan Fisher   St George  
Pitch 2 has 1 piton in the upper crack Apr 26, 2004
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
The route can easily be climbed in one pitch. A few extra finger-to-hand-sized cams are useful if you do this. The crux is at the starting corner. Oct 19, 2004
Jason Billings
Draper, UT
Jason Billings   Draper, UT
Easy to set gear on.This was my first trad and first lead (pitch 2). Also a great way to setup a toprope for Cheetah pitch 2 if you want to practice some great friction climbing. Mar 13, 2005
North East Washington
lunabloomgirl   North East Washington
Fun crack. Good for small hands! Aug 26, 2010
Thumer   SLC, UT
We did this route as an approach to Tingey's Terror. We got rained out once we got up to Tingey's, but I thought this was really fun route even by itself. Oct 17, 2015
Peter Lenz
Salt Lake City
Peter Lenz   Salt Lake City
I think the initial crack is solid 5.8, although just for 2 moves, or so.
Bottom line: protect the crack, if you are in doubt. Aug 5, 2018
first assent "sweet Jane" Lenny Nelson and Jim Booth. Fall 1964. The original beginning of "Tarzan". I don't know who gave it the "sweet Jane" handle. Lenny Nelson S.L.C Aug 28, 2018