Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: John Rogers and Tim Murphy 84' (sans bolts and with pants on fire)
Page Views: 5,077 total · 27/month
Shared By: Tyler Phillips on Oct 31, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Thrash up and past 2 or 3 trees to the yellow patina face. Step out onto the face and clip a retro bolt. Slab your way up using really nice holds passing 2 more retro bolts, after the 3rd retro bolt keep cruising up to join the last 2 moves on the Groove pitch. From here pad your way up the ultra classic "Terror" pitch on Tingy's passing 3 bolts to Fudd Ledge.

This makes for a nice long continuous 120 foot pitch.

Location Suggest change

From the start of the 2nd pitch on Tingy's there is a tree shelf after a little roof. Instead of climbing up the Tingy's corner, thrash your way past the slung trees (rappel station). There is a good stance just above these trees and a hand crack that takes bomber cams, belay here.

Protection Suggest change

QD's, #1 camalot or .75 camalot, a sling for the cam on the Groove. You can use a small TCU to protect the moves from the Groove to the "Terror" pitch (sling this too).

A #2 Camalot and #4 Metolius for the belay is nice.