Tingey's Direct
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| GPS: | 40.5729, -111.7529 |
| FA: | "John Rogers and Tim Murphy 84' " Bolted by TP and LD on lead 2006 |
| Page Views: | 5,212 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Tyler Phillips on Oct 31, 2008 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Thrash up and past 2 or 3 trees to the yellow patina face. Step out onto the face and clip a retro bolt. Slab your way up using really nice holds passing 2 more retro bolts, after the 3rd retro bolt keep cruising up to join the last 2 moves on the Groove pitch. From here pad your way up the ultra classic "Terror" pitch on Tingy's passing 3 bolts to Fudd Ledge.
This makes for a nice long continuous 120 foot pitch.




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