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Routes in Beckey's Wall Area

"Elementary My Dear Watson" T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
3rd Crack Over T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Axis of Evil Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beckey's Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cheetah T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Date With Kate T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Date with Fate T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fingertrip Variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Fruit Loops T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Hesitate No More T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Hesitation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Needle's Eye Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Orange Sling, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pebbles and Bambam S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shaken Climber Syndrome S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Siesta T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Split Decision T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Split Fingers T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Split Pants T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Jane Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tarzan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tingey's Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tingey's Terror T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tingey's Torture T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: John Rogers and Tim Murphy 84' (sans bolts and with pants on fire)
Page Views: 3,409 total, 31/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Oct 31, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Thrash up and past 2 or 3 trees to the yellow patina face. Step out onto the face and clip a retro bolt. Slab your way up using really nice holds passing 2 more retro bolts, after the 3rd retro bolt keep cruising up to join the last 2 moves on the Groove pitch. From here pad your way up the ultra classic "Terror" pitch on Tingy's passing 3 bolts to Fudd Ledge.

This makes for a nice long continuous 120 foot pitch.

Location

From the start of the 2nd pitch on Tingy's there is a tree shelf after a little roof. Instead of climbing up the Tingy's corner, thrash your way past the slung trees (rappel station). There is a good stance just above these trees and a hand crack that takes bomber cams, belay here.

Protection

QD's, #1 camalot or .75 camalot, a sling for the cam on the Groove. You can use a small TCU to protect the moves from the Groove to the "Terror" pitch (sling this too).

A #2 Camalot and #4 Metolius for the belay is nice.

Photos

Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Sir Camsalot   thankgodchickenhead, Ut
So do you sign your checks with "TP in SLC?" Just sayin... As for your line, it was fun and separate from The Groove me thinks..hope thats not what all the hoopla about the groove bolt discussion was about. I wouldn'ta done it w/o bolts. Seems there are other "developers" in LCC more deserving of criticism. Oct 8, 2010
It would be cool if John can get up there and verify. Some of the pictures posted are misleading about where the climb goes.The line of bolts moves left from the start. Could be Tourist Trap Direct too? I agree with TP though, if we bolted John's 5.7X I'll help pull and patch. Oct 8, 2010
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.7+
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.7+
It would take a serious pair to lead that on (no) gear. It's still pretty ricey and there's a lot of ground to cover between the trees and the groove.
I say leave it (I don't consider that double standard). If the FA objects, pull it and it will never be done again. Tingeys will be a wandering annoying route again.

Does this have anything to do with the mystery bolt? Wouldn't that be a different line? Seems like TP's line if further out right... Oct 8, 2010
ddriver
SLC
ddriver   SLC
"This pitch was put up ground first."

Whatever. Looks like the same terrain I lead 10 years ago on gear, as I'm sure many others have. No bolts needed or wanted. Oct 7, 2010
Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Sir Camsalot   thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Prolly saw it after that 2007 comment but positive it was there. Climbed the variation again 2 weeks ago and we couldn't find it. Oct 6, 2010
Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Sir Camsalot   thankgodchickenhead, Ut
NOOOOOOOOOOO! Tene, say it isn't so! Aug 11, 2010
Ahhh. I get it now. I was wondering about the fantasmagorical version of undocumented events. The cryptic deletion of posts and the really bad bolt icons on the photos.

Here we go again... Aug 11, 2010
Tea
Tea  
+1 for no bolt.

I have climbed the groove numerous times, and could never even find the old hole....figured it was a typo.

"I broke the bolt when I fell on it in the 1990s."

oh jeez...here we go again. Aug 11, 2010
bsmoot  
No Aug 11, 2010


Sounds like it should go back in then. Any thoughts on it?

He He.. Aug 10, 2010
So LCC Climber's comment about the bolt is unrelated to the Tourist Trap variation.
Is The Tourist Trap a new variation with a new bolt, does it use one of the last bolts of the Tingey's Direct variation. Aug 10, 2010
Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Sir Camsalot   thankgodchickenhead, Ut
I'm sure the old hole is from the bolt listed in the Ruckman guide. Looking at the above photo the hole is about 10' left and then another 10' straight down, almost directly under the crack. I checked it out a couple of years ago and it looks like the bolt broke off flush with the rock, hard to see and harder to find. Was probably an old 1/4''er. Might be cool if it got replaced cause that would make a much better pitch with the slab above...but I'm not the bolt placing kinda guy. Aug 10, 2010
So is it in the groove or out as indicated by the above topo? Is there a bolt there now? More info will make it easier to find the hole as I and most others have never seen it. If the bolt has been replaced then why not post this worthy variation up in the data base? Is the bolt hole the one shown in the Ruckman guide for the groove pitch? I will go look. Thanks for the info. Must of been a bloody near death fall! Aug 10, 2010
Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Sir Camsalot   thankgodchickenhead, Ut
The bolt hole is there, just below where the good gear starts in the groove. Aug 9, 2010
Those 90's sure were sooomethin'! I would love to see a picture of the old bolt hole, which was supposedly in the groove not where you indicate.
Bad memory or just plain ol'BS? Aug 8, 2010
I broke the bolt when I fell on it in the 1990s.

Aug 8, 2010
bsmoot  
Don't ever remember a bolt being there. You can get some gear in. Nov 18, 2008
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.7+
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.7+
Probably the best and most direct way to get to fudd ledge if you're trying to link pitches on Tingey's. This variation avoids the easy but runout traverse to the bolts of the terror slab.
I got to the start of the route (rap tree anchor) in 1 pitch from the base of Tarzan. Quite long and the rope drag gets heinous if you place gear anywhere near the top of Tarzan (don't clip the anchors or sling the tree to the right of the anchors, run it out on the easy slab to the lieback corner).
You have to bushwack a bit to get below the first bolt, but it's not as bad as indecent exposure (wink wink).
Once it cleans up it will be similar to a low angle Viewing, with good patina edges and well spaced bolts. Bring a .5 or .75 for the groove (coolest feature!) and some slings for trees. Nov 3, 2008
zoso
 
zoso  
 
The Ruckman book shows a bolt on the groove pitch, but I've never seen it. Since you have a drill... Nov 1, 2008