East of Eden
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British R
Type: | Trad, 650 ft (197 m), 5 pitches |
FA: | Tony Calderone, Chris Begue, Jose Pereya, Collin Seabourne, Reuben Cousins. 1996 |
Page Views: | 249 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Rosemary Bloom on Oct 5, 2023 |
Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
"East of Eden"? East of a gully seemed to be the trend of this route. This climb has some contrived sections but i thought the movement and features were fun enough to give it a whirl.
P1. Start at the first anchor you see on the approach up to the dihedrals, above lies a flake and gritty smears for a full 200ft,
P2. bump belay up to bushy ledge
P3. Plenty. of bolts and grit lead you up yet more slab into a bolted belay above more bushes.
P4. climb arete to fudd ledge
P5.From the east end of fudd ledge go up and right of a sweet lyback crack, once high enough to travers into another crack system on the right, build a nest and tiptoe into crumble city, enjoyable jams and features await.
0 Comments