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Tingey's Torture
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.9 from 174
votes
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Tarzan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tingey's Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tingey's Terror T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tingey's Torture T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tourist Variation (Split Pants) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Watergate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Weapons of Mass Destruction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Smoot, Gardner & Saxey '96 |
| Page Views: | 13,186 total · 53/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Gram on Apr 24, 2004 · Updates |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Tingey's Torture has some more pitches to do after climbing Tarzan and Tingey's Terror. I did some interesting variations (by accident), but I will describe what the real route is!
P1 & P2) Climb Tarzan or Sweet Jane.
P3 - P6) Climb Tingey's Terror.
P7) From the trees, continue up the crack system to a V formed by to wide cracks. Some fixed pro climbs up the face to the right of the two cracks. Take your pick of a few good ledges for a gear anchor.
P8) Several options. Most straight forward is a 5.6 slot straight up, stopping at a big ledge (gear anchor). Or try a 5.10 bolted variation to the right.
P9) From the ledge, do a small runout to the first of 3 bolts. This face is 5.8, and then has a long easy runout to a 2 bolt anchor.
P10) Traverse left from the bolts, then ramble up easy slabs to a right facing corner. Follow this fun easy corner until a bolt on the left face. Climb the slab up clipping a second bolt, then easily up and over to a set of chain anchors.
Descent) Rappel from the top of Pitch 9 to the standard decent of the flakes. 4 total rappels. 70m rope required for these rappels. 1st rap goes from the top of Tingey's to the bolts at the top of the flakes, 2nd rap down to the base of the flakes and continue east across the mellow slab, bolts just over the edge with a nice ledge to set up the 3rd rap. Continue rapping to the east and the final rap will get you to the base where you can hike the rest of the way down.
Alternatively, there is a long tedious scramble west down to the Schoolroom rappel, then a one-rope rap.
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