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Routes in Beckey's Wall Area

"Elementary My Dear Watson" T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
3rd Crack Over T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Axis of Evil Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beckey's Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cheetah T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Date With Kate T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Date with Fate T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fingertrip Variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Fruit Loops T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Hesitate No More T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Hesitation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Needle's Eye Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Orange Sling, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pebbles and Bambam S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shaken Climber Syndrome S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Siesta T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Split Decision T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Split Fingers T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Split Pants T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Jane Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tarzan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tingey's Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tingey's Terror T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tingey's Torture T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, TR, 110 ft
FA: Hunt, Wrona, Whipple, Wones
Page Views: 5,368 total · 33/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Feb 25, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This route is an excellent variation for the final pitch of Beckey's Wall. From the 2nd belay station, continue up Beckeys for 10-20 feet and then work right along a ledge system. From here you can see the line of bolts. Climb the left line of bolts. The last bolt can be hard to pick out, it is there. From the anchors climb up and over (west) until you can reach some easily downclimbed ledge systems. These will take you to a large pine tree with slings, a cable, a biner, and 2 old rap rings (Five Fingers Rappel). Rap down and then downclimb and head east, where you can reach the Half-a-Finger anchors for a 2nd rap. The rock on this route is nice, albeit a bit flaky. Definitely a nice alternative to the easy gully scramble that finishes Beckey's Wall.

Protection

5 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor. A couple of pieces could take a bite out of the beginning cruiser section.

Photos

philfell
Olympic Valley, CA
5.8+
philfell   Olympic Valley, CA
5.8+
This is a great pitch to do when doing Beckey's Wall. There are some runs between a few bolts, but just keep moving from chicken head to chicken head and you'll be to the next bolt before you realize.

I usually bring two 60m ropes when I do this climb. From the top anchors on Pebbles and Bambam one TWO rope rap gets you to the top of the second pitch of Beckey's and one more TWO rope rap gets you back at your packs. Be considerate not to throw you ropes on top of anyone if others are following you up. May 23, 2005
Nathan Fisher
St George
 
Nathan Fisher   St George  
 
1 70 meter rope gets you to the tree at the base of the route which has slings to get you to the top of Beckey's. Very stimulating lead getting to the 4th bolt. Jun 30, 2005
Jason Billings
Draper, UT
  5.9
Jason Billings   Draper, UT
  5.9
Just did this climb yesterday. This is a much bettter 3rd Pitch to Beckey's than the 5.4 crack. With a 70M rope you can run Beckey's all the way up to the tree skipping both of the standard Beckey's belay stations. If you're going to slingshot this route you will need the 70M rope for sure. All though most bolts are spaced around 15ft apart I woulnt' call this route runout. You can also get off this route with a 70M rope in 2 raps. Once from the rings on the tree and once from the first set of Becky's chains. Jul 8, 2005
Boissal -
Small Lake, UT
  5.9
Boissal -   Small Lake, UT
  5.9
The 4th (?) bolt in the black water streak is strangely placed and drags you out on easy ground, making you either bypass the last part of the slab (probably the most fun) or climb it with a bunch of drag even if you use long runners. I thought about running it out and skipping that bolt but that leaves a lot of air under your ass.
Then again I might have been confused and clipped a bolt from date with fate... Fun climbing either way.
I'd recommend rapping from the top of the route to the tree at the top of Fingertip Variation then downclimbing (spooky)/belaying down to the chains on top of Beckey's for the next rappel.
You can rap straight down from the tree to the intermediate Beckey's anchor but the slings around the tree are short and pulling your rope will be a major pain. Jun 24, 2008
Floridaputz
Oakland Park, Florida
Floridaputz   Oakland Park, Florida
I did this finish after looking at 3rd Pitch of Beckys, and thinking it did not look as fun as that slab. This pitch is great. Every time it starts getting scary you get to another chicken head to rest on. If you like slab you will love this variation. I skipped that last bolt it looked off route to me. Jul 1, 2008
Stevie Nacho   Utah
After the third bolt, go left into the black water streak. If you look directly up, you'll see a bolt really high. This bolt is an added bolt that really doesn't make sense, don't run it out to here! There is also a new "calderone" route to the left. Since I last did this route, it was obvious climbing with following the bolts. Now, you have to decipher which bolts to climb to. Anyhow, this route is fun if you can figure out the original bolt line to follow.

TO CLIMB THE ORIGINAL PEBBELS AND BAMBAM, CLIMB UP THREE BOLTS THEN ARCH LEFT INTO THE BLACK WATER STREAK THEN CLIMB TO THE CHAINS

TDA May 23, 2010
Sort of irritating issue keeps coming up. When you do this with a 70 meter, you must rap to the tree. I've replaced webbing and left rap rings on this tree 2x, and every time I go up there, all of the slings are cut off.

I'm now rapping directly off the tree with the rope. Probably wont be long till it's dead. Jun 4, 2011
Christian West  
  5.9
I did this climb today after Becky's wall, it was a good climb. Every time it got sketchy, you'd get to the next chicken head. Oct 14, 2011
Dean Raynes
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Dean Raynes   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
I choose the left line of bolts going straight up the Blake streak. Evidently it's not Pebbles and Bambam but it was a fun 5.9 slab a bit runout to the second bolt. And from the looks of the slab the black streak looks more consistent slab climbing rather then chickenhead hopping on the right line of bolts. Just make sure you have fun! Oct 25, 2011
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
No need to rap off the tree on the ledge as its a very easy down climb to the Becky p2 anchors! Apr 23, 2012
Staney
Durango, CO
 
Staney   Durango, CO
 
Climbed this route earlier this summer and found it superb! I climbed the route with my best friend, who's father was on the FA party. His father passed away a few years ago, so this route was a very special lead for my buddy. When we both got to the top, we spread some of his ashes and enjoyed the beautiful bliss of the canyon. I'll always remember that climb. Sep 22, 2013
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9- PG13
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9- PG13
This route was a lot of fun. Kind of confusing and wandering with all the bolts up there now, but super fun.

Based on everyone's beta here I believe you will clip a total of four bolts on the route. Three in a very slightly rightward trending line and then the nice long runout left to the fourth bolt in the water streak. A tiny cam could be placed above that before the chains but it's easy ground and if you ran it out to that fourth bolt you should be comfy here. There is a possible fifth bolt to clip if you contrive yourself onto the slab for a few more moves. The rock is extremely flaky there though.

Bring a .3 with a double length runner to throw in the flake on the right to protect the moves to the first bolt. No matter how you slice it though, the climb will be a little bit run out. Apr 10, 2014
BigNobody
all over, mostly Utah
BigNobody   all over, mostly Utah
This is a fun route. When I was there last year on a road trip I noticed that the whole area around there (and The Black Peeler) have been machine gunned with new bolts. Definitely different from when I was there in 2009. I will add, the new bolts seem to be table scraps. I did manage to veer up and left above Pebbles and Bam Bam on some nondescript mediocre strangely bolted pitches. Any info on those pitches? Apr 10, 2014
JFM
  5.9 PG13
JFM  
  5.9 PG13
Note re: rappelling the route-- a 70m rope will get either to the tree-ledge with a downclimb to the Beckey's 2nd anchor or alternately, swing over climbers left to the beefy rap station at the tree about halfway down the slab section (i.e., in line with the 3rd pitch of Beckey's). Aug 5, 2014
Brennan Crellin
Millcreek, UT
  5.9
Brennan Crellin   Millcreek, UT  
  5.9
A C4 #0.4 will find a great home behind the thick flake, about 8-10' above the tree on bleay ledge (belay atop Fingertips variation pitch), to 'take a bite' out of the distance to the first bolt.

From the top, and 80m rope, double over, will rap to the second station on Becky's, and again from there (exactly) to the deck. Apr 3, 2015
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
 
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
 
Got on this last weekend, and the 4-5 bolts around the original line can be confusing. The two to the left of the route seem to make an alternate start to the original line (did not try this). These two bolts make a straighter line to the top bolt of Pebbles than the original line does. The original line takes off on the ledge past these first two. Then at the third bolt, where the original line curves into the left water streak one is pretty close to another option to the climbers right. These bolts to the right are actually part of a route called Date With Fate. I ended my climb with this so i went on a date with Pebbles and Bambam? I wouldn't recommend this variation as it is better to run the line straight from the starting ledge if you want to do Date With Fate. either way, some fun LCC slab! Jul 20, 2015
Steve Posner
Richmond, Vermont
 
Steve Posner   Richmond, Vermont
 
I also got pulled right after a couple bolts, similar to what Crag described, and moved far right to climb the slabby arete before traversing back left to the anchors. My partner followed a straighter line up to the anchors. A thrilling and worthwhile pitch that's run out between bolts on 5.9 slab.

We used a 70m rope to rap to the tree, which had a sling. Our rope would not reach the anchors at top of 2nd pitch of Beckey's. Nov 5, 2016
This slab of rock contains 4 different routes. From left to right they are:
1. Last pitch of Becky's Wall, 5.4
2. Watergate - a 3 bolt climb squeezed in between Becky's and P&B which shares the first bolt with P&B
3. Pebbles & Bambam, 4 bolts - not 5 as stated in the guidebook and definirely run out between bolt 3 & 4 (apparently the original line cut over to a bolt on the left which seems very unnatural as far as the climbing goes)
4. Date With Fate - 2 bolt + gear route on the far right side of the slab

As far as bolted anchor stations go:

Becky's Wall (BW) has 3 anchor stations. One at 65' up on the first pitch, one another 85' up on the second pitch and one about 80' up on the third pitch.
There is an anchor about 20' up and right from the second anchor on BW. It is just above the tree ledge and is best used for climbing the slab routes #2-#4 listed above.
There is a common anchor at the top of the slab routes which is more or less directly above the P&B line. Then about 30' or so above and to the left is another anchor on a slab ledge. It is useful if carrying on to the climbing above. Nov 2, 2017

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