Avg: 2.3 from 23 votes
|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Brian Smoot & Tom Lund, 1997|
|Page Views:||2,913 total · 19/month|
|Shared By:||bsmoot on Jul 3, 2007|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
This is a fun, moderate, clean, long route because you get to combine it with Beckey's Wall and either of the good slab routes that climb the face right of the last pitch of Beckey's. Because of it's length, it has the same feel as Tingey's Torture. You get 7 pitches in all, although you may be able to link some of them.
Pitch 1: climb a slab just right of a short right facing corner to a bolt. Continue up to a gear belay at a fixed pin on a horizontal crack (5.6).
Pitch 2: Ascend the high quality slab above past 3 bolts to a bolted belay (5.9).
Pitch 3: Climb the slab above to a steep bulge. A 5.9 finger crack in a left facing corner passes the bulge. Traverse left to a gear belay below a chockstone (#2,3 camalots).
Pitch 4: Be carefull passing the chockstone and ascend the asthestic nobby arete (1 bolt) and a tied-off nob to the top (5.7).