Type: Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Brian Smoot & Tom Lund, 1997
Page Views: 2,913 total · 19/month
Shared By: bsmoot on Jul 3, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

The Orange Sling II (5.9) climbs the upper slabs of the Gate Buttress. Begin at the top of Date with Fate or Pebbles & BamBam (same belay).

This is a fun, moderate, clean, long route because you get to combine it with Beckey's Wall and either of the good slab routes that climb the face right of the last pitch of Beckey's. Because of it's length, it has the same feel as Tingey's Torture. You get 7 pitches in all, although you may be able to link some of them.

Pitch 1: climb a slab just right of a short right facing corner to a bolt. Continue up to a gear belay at a fixed pin on a horizontal crack (5.6).

Pitch 2: Ascend the high quality slab above past 3 bolts to a bolted belay (5.9).

Pitch 3: Climb the slab above to a steep bulge. A 5.9 finger crack in a left facing corner passes the bulge. Traverse left to a gear belay below a chockstone (#2,3 camalots).

Pitch 4: Be carefull passing the chockstone and ascend the asthestic nobby arete (1 bolt) and a tied-off nob to the top (5.7).

Protection

Belay off of a giant chickenhead. Bring cams to 3".

Photos