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Routes in Beckey's Wall Area

"Elementary My Dear Watson" T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
3rd Crack Over T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Axis of Evil Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beckey's Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cheetah T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Date With Kate T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Date with Fate T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fingertrip Variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Fruit Loops T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Hesitate No More T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Hesitation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Needle's Eye Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Orange Sling, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pebbles and Bambam S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shaken Climber Syndrome S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Siesta T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Split Decision T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Split Fingers T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Split Pants T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Jane Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tarzan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tingey's Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tingey's Terror T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tingey's Torture T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Brian Smoot & Tom Lund, 1997
Page Views: 2,504 total, 20/month
Shared By: bsmoot on Jul 3, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

The Orange Sling II (5.9) climbs the upper slabs of the Gate Buttress. Begin at the top of Date with Fate or Pebbles & BamBam (same belay).

This is a fun, moderate, clean, long route because you get to combine it with Beckey's Wall and either of the good slab routes that climb the face right of the last pitch of Beckey's. Because of it's length, it has the same feel as Tingey's Torture. You get 7 pitches in all, although you may be able to link some of them.

Pitch 1: climb a slab just right of a short right facing corner to a bolt. Continue up to a gear belay at a fixed pin on a horizontal crack (5.6).

Pitch 2: Ascend the high quality slab above past 3 bolts to a bolted belay (5.9).

Pitch 3: Climb the slab above to a steep bulge. A 5.9 finger crack in a left facing corner passes the bulge. Traverse left to a gear belay below a chockstone (#2,3 camalots).

Pitch 4: Be carefull passing the chockstone and ascend the asthestic nobby arete (1 bolt) and a tied-off nob to the top (5.7).

Protection

Belay off of a giant chickenhead. Bring cams to 3".

Photos

After Pebbles and Bam-Bam, Colin and I linked Orange sling in two pitches with a single 60m rope. However, the drag on the second and final pitch was unbearable so it should be broken in two as indicated by the circle belay (no bolts) on the map. Good placement for cams at that location. The map is fine though, i don't see why people are complaining. Incredible adventure !! April 3, 2016. Apr 3, 2016
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
hmmm, if this is the route we got on and it appears to be by the bolt count, the 5.9 crux is the hardest 5.9 move I've seen anywhere! Also there is now another set of anchor bolts right below the 5.9 crack (and another mystery slab route below it) which may be a better spot to belay from. The 5.9 crack is excellent and easy to continue to the top of the 5.7 section (did not see or need the bolt). From there we simuled up and right to top of Tingeys and did the East side raps to get down. Apr 23, 2012
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
stoked! May 2, 2011
grk10vq    
i've got a rough draft from the FA:



you'll want to save a #2 cam for the crab section. Apr 30, 2011
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
can we get some sort of basic topo for this please? Apr 29, 2011