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Routes in Beckey's Wall Area

"Elementary My Dear Watson" T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
3rd Crack Over T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Axis of Evil Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beckey's Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cheetah T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Date With Kate T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Date with Fate T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fingertrip Variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Fruit Loops T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Hesitate No More T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Hesitation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Needle's Eye Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Orange Sling, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pebbles and Bambam S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shaken Climber Syndrome S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Siesta T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Split Decision T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Split Fingers T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Split Pants T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Jane Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tarzan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tingey's Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tingey's Terror T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tingey's Torture T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Black, Black
Page Views: 236 total · 1/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Aug 7, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This route starts just east of Beckey's Wall, but west of Tarzan. In other words there are 2 bolted lines east of Beckey's, and this is the left line. The 1st 2 pitches can definitely be combined. This climbing is sequential and thin, a testpiece of microflakes and crystals. Getting to the 1st anchors (around the bulge) is the crux. It starts tough and doesn't let up (my fingertips are still screaming). The 1st 3 bolts have similar moves--micro-flakes and fingertips of steel, however getting to the anchors from the pair of bolts (1 old and 1 new) is a body english problem to stump the best of us. The second pitch (or 2nd half of the 1st pitch) is a romp up the slab (5.10a) in comparison. Belay at the anchors. The 3rd pitch climb the roof with fist jams and liebacks, and then the climbing gets interesting again. It traverses left (5.10) on thin holds around a steep section and finally slabs up the next face.There are 2 suspect bolts here so be careful. Belay at the tree. Pitch 4....to be continued as it got dark and we bailed.

P.S. Dont just do pitch 1, get on up ignore the grit and do pitch 3 as this adds the spice that makes the climb fun.

Protection

Draws no more than 6 per pitch, and also extra for the chain anchors. A couple piece of large gear for the roof.

Photos

zoso
  5.11b R
zoso  
  5.11b R
Finally got on the 3rd pitch. Highly recommended. #3 cam for the initial roof. A 70 will land you back at the belay @ the top of Tarzan, but you have to put your rope around the belay tree. Pulled fine though. Sep 4, 2014
Two bad 1\4" button head bolts on last pitch replaced today by mike white and jon rogers. ASCA- SS bolts and hardware was used.
Thanks to clay watson and partner for fixing lines for us.
All bolts are now good.
mike white
ASCA Apr 28, 2007
d-know
electric lady land
  5.11b
d-know   electric lady land
  5.11b
i saw a guy skid down into the gully at left and break his ankle. off route i think. falling on this one aint to bad. good slabbiness. Jan 25, 2006
Vince Romney
  5.11b
Vince Romney  
  5.11b
Lots of fun! Definitely agree with Nathan... do pitch one and two together, and then make the trip up pitch three as it offers some of the best climbing on the entire route. This was my first foray into 5.11 20 years ago and it still grabs my attention today. The crux bulge is always a puzzler... work those feet high! Aug 10, 2004