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Routes in Beckey's Wall Area

"Elementary My Dear Watson" T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
3rd Crack Over T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Axis of Evil Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beckey's Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cheetah T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Date With Kate T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Date with Fate T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fingertrip Variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Fruit Loops T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Hesitate No More T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Hesitation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Needle's Eye Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Orange Sling, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pebbles and Bambam S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shaken Climber Syndrome S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Siesta T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Split Decision T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Split Fingers T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Split Pants T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Jane Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tarzan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tingey's Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tingey's Terror T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tingey's Torture T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Unknon
Page Views: 128 total · 1/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Aug 11, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

From the midway belay station on the easy dihedral pitch of Beckey's Wall is a vertical flake system. This is the start of Hesitation. It continues up this initially well-protected flake system angling left a bit into grooves that don't protect too well (brass nuts). A fall here would probably deck, but keep moving into another crack system that ends in nice diagonalling (almost horizontal) hand crack. Cams or hexes are especially important here. Work through this fun sequence into progressively worse rock, and fight your way through the trees/bushes. About miodway through the vegetation, a vertical crack saves you from the trees; however, the rock quality maintains its poor nature. As this crack progresses, it widens and flares into a nast offwidth. #2's and larger are imperative to protect safely here. The chains are within reach soon. Beware of loose rock, dead tree branches on the upper face. I almost took out my partner when my left handhold (1' X 2' rock), came hurtling off. Bring your helmets.

Protection

A 2-bolt anchor on top with some new chains. Bring a couple of brass, and a wide selection of gear, mainly #2 Camalots and larger. Some runners for drag would help in your upward movement.

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