Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Drew Bedford & Doug Heinrich
Page Views: 1,408 total · 12/month
Shared By: Greg Gavin on Sep 26, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

You & This Route

6 Opinions
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Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Another gem hidden in plain sight Suggest change

A fun edging affair on pretty good rock albeit with some grit because it doesn't ever get climbed.

Step off the Beckey's corner and get your balance game on. There is slight deck potential getting to the first bolt, but with pro above you in the corner system I don't think it's worthy of an R rating. Bolt 2 provides more exhilarating travel over rock above the corner so have your belayer keep you reeled in. Once bolt 2 is clipped you're out of the danger zone, and can ready yourself for the upper crux past bolt 3. Once through this you can take flared gritty cracks to the top of the wall or climb a thin crack up and right to the Beckey belay.

The Ruckman guide has the topo line going to the top of the hesitation wall through some rather suspect looking stone. I suspect most climbers traverse right to the second belay anchor for Beckey's wall.

Get on this thing! Super fun climbing on great rock that needs more love.

Location Suggest change

On the east facing hesitation wall which makes the left margin of the popular Beckey's wall 5.7. The route starts 15 feet up and left of Beckey's p1 belay.

Protection Suggest change

3 bolts, and a single set to #1 camalot.


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