Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Beckey's Wall Area

"Elementary My Dear Watson" T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
3rd Crack Over T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Axis of Evil Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beckey's Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cheetah T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Date With Kate T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Date with Fate T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fingertrip Variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Fruit Loops T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Hesitate No More T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Hesitation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Needle's Eye Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Orange Sling, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pebbles and Bambam S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shaken Climber Syndrome S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Siesta T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Split Decision T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Split Fingers T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Split Pants T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Jane Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tarzan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tingey's Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tingey's Terror T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tingey's Torture T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Drew Bedford & Doug Heinrich
Page Views: 415 total, 11/month
Shared By: Greg Gavin on Sep 26, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Another gem hidden in plain sight

A fun edging affair on pretty good rock albeit with some grit because it doesn't ever get climbed.

Step off the Beckey's corner and get your balance game on. There is slight deck potential getting to the first bolt, but with pro above you in the corner system I don't think it's worthy of an R rating. Bolt 2 provides more exhilarating travel over rock above the corner so have your belayer keep you reeled in. Once bolt 2 is clipped you're out of the danger zone, and can ready yourself for the upper crux past bolt 3. Once through this you can take flared gritty cracks to the top of the wall or climb a thin crack up and right to the Beckey belay.

The Ruckman guide has the topo line going to the top of the hesitation wall through some rather suspect looking stone. I suspect most climbers traverse right to the second belay anchor for Beckey's wall.

Get on this thing! Super fun climbing on great rock that needs more love.

Location

On the east facing hesitation wall which makes the left margin of the popular Beckey's wall 5.7. The route starts 15 feet up and left of Beckey's p1 belay.

Protection

3 bolts, and a single set to #1 camalot.

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments