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Routes in Beckey's Wall Area

"Elementary My Dear Watson" T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
3rd Crack Over T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Axis of Evil Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beckey's Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cheetah T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Date With Kate T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Date with Fate T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fingertrip Variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Fruit Loops T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Hesitate No More T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Hesitation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Needle's Eye Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Orange Sling, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pebbles and Bambam S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shaken Climber Syndrome S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Siesta T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Split Decision T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Split Fingers T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Split Pants T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Jane Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tarzan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tingey's Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tingey's Terror T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tingey's Torture T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Douglass, Ruckman
Page Views: 1,294 total, 8/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Feb 25, 2005 with updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This is the right line of bolts above Beckeys Wall 1st 2 pitches. Approach as per Pebbles and Bambam, and climb the flake system on the far right of the starting ledge. You will climb through this into the 3 bolt line. The crux is bolted and again is a nice way to finish Beckey's Wall. Good rock with a bit of flakiness in February (probably cleaner in summer). Descend as per Pebbles and Bambam.

Protection

3 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor. Some gear is needed for the initial flake system.

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Brennan Crellin
Millcreek, UT
Brennan Crellin   Millcreek, UT  
@Rocky Jedick yes the route is called The Orange Sling, it is on MP Jun 24, 2017
Rocky Jedick
Italy
 
Rocky Jedick   Italy
 
Anyone know the name/grades of the pitches that continue above Date with Fate? We continued up for 3 more pitches and found fixed anchors the whole way. Two pitches above Fate is a super fun off-width crack/chimney. Are the catalogued on MP? Jul 12, 2015
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
i got a bomber #1 camalot on the ledge about 15' right of the treed ledge and ran out the easy 5.6 ground to the first micro in the flake. All in all a worthy pitch. Now I have to get on pebbles. Nov 9, 2009
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.9-
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.9-
There's gear along and above the ledge, small stuff (00 and 0 C3s). Kind of annoying to place blindly but you can get a dozen pieces in 15' if you feel like it. Use long runners or be prepared to set-up a 3:1 haul system to pull slack.
Interesting rock and good slabbin' up high. Clip the 3rd bolt (belongs to pebble) to add some fun thin friction moves. May 11, 2009
Ryan Brough
Arvada, Colorado
  5.9 R
Ryan Brough   Arvada, Colorado
  5.9 R
Is there any pro between the traversing ledge and the flake? I ran it out 40 feet. Maybe a 00 TCU or small offset nut in a shallow flare (I had neither). Fortunately, the climbing is easy through that section. Aug 30, 2007
I am changing my rating to two stars due to me leading the entire route this time as opposed to just finishing on it (don't ask). The gear in the flake is shaky and small, but the climbing isn't too bad (5.8'ish) at that point. Only two bolts as well. That 3rd bolt is actually part of Pebbles and Bambam. More frictiony than Pebbles. Jun 30, 2005