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Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Gate Buttress
> Beckey's Wall Area
Fudd Ledge Left Variation
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in Beckey's Wall Area
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"Elementary Dear Watson" T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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3rd Crack Over T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Axis of Evil Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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baloney on white T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Beckey's Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cheetah T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Date with Fate T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Date With Kate T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X |
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East of Eden T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Fingertrip Variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Fruit Loops T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Fudd Ledge Left Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hesitate No More T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R |
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Hesitation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Independent Streak T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Last Caress, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Needle's Eye Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Orange Sling, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Original Last Caress, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pebbles and Bambam S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Shaken Climber Syndrome S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Siesta T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Split Decision T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Split Fingers T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Split Pants T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sweet Jane Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tarzan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tingey's Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tingey's Terror T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tingey's Torture T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tourist Variation (Split Pants) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Watergate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Weapons of Mass Destruction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 210 ft (64 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | B & J Smoot, 1990's |
| Page Views: | 388 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | bsmoot on Apr 17, 2022 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Pitch 1: Climb up a thin flake for 20'. Move right to another crack and follow it to a roof. Traverse left here to a bolted belay, 5.8
Pitch 2: Climb over a small roof and friction past 2 bolts (5.9) to a steep headwall. Make a long, easy traverse right past some trees. Move up and right to an arete with chickenheads. Climb this past 2 bolts to low angle area which is traversed to an intersection with Tingey's Terror. Part of this route is mentioned in the Granite guide as "Right Stairs". Sections of this variation have probably been earlier.
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