Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 128 total · 1/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Sep 20, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

After coming up Tarzan or Sweet Jane there is a sub-belay about 40 feet up. From anchor climb like your going up Sweet Jane but instead of going right go straight up a crack that slams shut. Near the terminus of the crack make a move to the left (towards Cheetah) into a really nice crack. Finger jam your way up this crack to it's end. Grab the chickenhead at the top (and wish there were 8 more), then slab your way (no pro) back to the Tarzan/"tourist variation" crack (right) where it changes cracks.

It looks possible to go over to Cheetah but the run-out looks longer and maybe harder.

This crack was packed flush with dirt and moss. After working it with a nut tool it turns out there is a nice crack under it.

Location

The 3rd crack to the left of Sweet Jane. The crack closest to Cheetah.

Protection

A rack of nuts,a blue HB offset (crux piece for me, but I am sure you could wiggle in something else) TCU's and a handcam for the finish.

Photos

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