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Routes in Beckey's Wall Area

"Elementary My Dear Watson" T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
3rd Crack Over T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Axis of Evil Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beckey's Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cheetah T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Date With Kate T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Date with Fate T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fingertrip Variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Fruit Loops T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Hesitate No More T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Hesitation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Needle's Eye Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Orange Sling, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pebbles and Bambam S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shaken Climber Syndrome S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Siesta T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Split Decision T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Split Fingers T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Split Pants T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Jane Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tarzan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tingey's Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tingey's Terror T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tingey's Torture T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Bill Hunt, Joe Wrona, Tom Whipple, Ed Wones
Page Views: 309 total, 14/month
Shared By: KG on Feb 27, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Right leaning finger crack way up above Beckeys Wall. This would be a great way to finish off a Beckeys Wall/Pebbles & Bambam link up.

Still a little dirty but will clean up nicely with more traffic. Hopefully people will come and check this one out! It's a little short but has good finger locks and is an aesthetic line.

Bring a 70m for the rappels.

The only mention of this route can be found in the Ruckman guide under the description for Pebbles and Bambam. There is also a picture in the Calderone LCC guidebook

Location

Up and right (~40 feet) from the top of Pebbles and Bambam

Its a little hidden so just keep looking.

Protection

Small gear

Photos

Sean A Smith
South Salt Lake, UT
 
Sean A Smith   South Salt Lake, UT
 
From the top of Pebbles and Bambam climb up and left on some dirty rock past some bushes and trees to another set of chain anchors. From those anchors walk right and climb up a couple of 5.5 moves to find Siesta. There are a set of bolted anchors up and right from the top of the Siesta crack.

It's pretty soft for LCC 5.10a with only a couple of moves at the grade. Apr 18, 2016
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
Nice work! Tried to find this thing a few years back, and got lost. Thanks for cleaning it out. Mar 2, 2016