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> Wasatch Range
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> Little Cottonwo…
> Gate Buttress
> Beckey's Wall Area
Beckey's Wall
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 3.3 from 726
votes
Routes in Beckey's Wall Area
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"Elementary Dear Watson" T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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3rd Crack Over T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Axis of Evil Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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baloney on white T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Beckey's Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cheetah T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Date with Fate T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Date With Kate T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X |
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East of Eden T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Fingertrip Variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Fruit Loops T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Fudd Ledge Left Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hesitate No More T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R |
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Hesitation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Independent Streak T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Last Caress T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Needle's Eye Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Orange Sling, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Pebbles and Bambam S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Shaken Climber Syndrome S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Siesta T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Split Decision T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Split Fingers T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Split Pants T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sweet Jane Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tarzan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tingey's Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tingey's Terror T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tingey's Torture T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tourist Variation (Split Pants) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Watergate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Weapons of Mass Destruction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Fred Beckey and Roslyn Stewart '61 |
| Page Views: | 43,900 total · 177/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Gram on May 1, 2004 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Beckey's Wall climbs the prominent right facing dihedral just right of Satan's Corner and left of Tarzan. Pitches 1 and 2 are often combined.
P1) Climb up slabby low angle dihedral for a short pitch to get to a set of chain anchors. (5.6)
P2) Continue up the dihedral, doing some fun stemming up to a piton. Then climb up the steep dihedral, using flakes on the left face. Finish at a ledge with 3 bolts with chains. (5.7)
From here, one option is to rap to the top of pitch 1, and then to the ground. Otherwise, continue up an easier wide crack to a belay with rap chains. Use a 60m rope to get to the chains atop P2, then a short rap to the base. Older comments mention long walk offs but you can now just rap the whole route from the top of P3.
History
This is [part of] a letter from Fred recently about the FA of Beckey's Wall. I thought it deserved to be saved and pasted here. The guy has unlimited energy, no question about that. This does clear up any of the previous dispute about fixed gear originally placed on this climb. I think it is great for the record:
"Yes, I did the route with Roslyn Stewart. The guidebook people sure are slow getting it changed. I know Eric B. told them more than once we did not place a bolt anywhere. Likely we rapped from pitons or trees. My guess is that we did it in 2 pitches. I have a shot on the climb, looking down; a poor but visible photo.
"Across the canyon, yes, Kor and I did something. I think the book prob. has it right."
James Garrett
"Yes, I did the route with Roslyn Stewart. The guidebook people sure are slow getting it changed. I know Eric B. told them more than once we did not place a bolt anywhere. Likely we rapped from pitons or trees. My guess is that we did it in 2 pitches. I have a shot on the climb, looking down; a poor but visible photo.
"Across the canyon, yes, Kor and I did something. I think the book prob. has it right."
James Garrett
42 Comments