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Routes in Beckey's Wall Area

"Elementary My Dear Watson" T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
3rd Crack Over T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Axis of Evil Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beckey's Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cheetah T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Date With Kate T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Date with Fate T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fingertrip Variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Fruit Loops T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Hesitate No More T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Hesitation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Needle's Eye Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Orange Sling, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pebbles and Bambam S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shaken Climber Syndrome S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Siesta T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Split Decision T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Split Fingers T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Split Pants T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Jane Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tarzan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tingey's Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tingey's Terror T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tingey's Torture T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 160 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Fred Beckey and Roslyn Stewart '61
Page Views: 32,299 total · 184/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on May 1, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Beckey's Wall climbs the prominent right facing dihedral just right of Satan's Corner and left of Tarzan. Pitches 1 and 2 are often combined.

P1) Climb up slabby low angle dihedral for a short pitch to get to a set of chain anchors. (5.6)
P2) Continue up the dihedral, doing some fun stemming up to a piton. Then climb up the steep dihedral, using flakes on the left face. Finish at a ledge with 3 bolts with chains. (5.7)

From here, one option is to rap to the top of pitch 1, and then to the ground. Otherwise, continue up an easier wide crack to a belay and a tree. Then a down climb must be done to get to the Five Fingers rappel, then doing a one rope rappel.

Protection

Standard Rack. Mostly smaller stuff, but I placed up to a #3 camalot.

History

This is [part of] a letter from Fred recently about the FA of Beckey's Wall. I thought it deserved to be saved and pasted here. The guy has unlimited energy, no question about that. This does clear up any of the previous dispute about fixed gear originally placed on this climb. I think it is great for the record:

"Yes, I did the route with Roslyn Stewart. The guidebook people sure are slow getting it changed. I know Eric B. told them more than once we did not place a bolt anywhere. Likely we rapped from pitons or trees. My guess is that we did it in 2 pitches. I have a shot on the climb, looking down; a poor but visible photo.

"Across the canyon, yes, Kor and I did something. I think the book prob. has it right."

—James Garrett
John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
 
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
 
The second pitch of this climb is so good that you shouldn't ruin good vibes by climbing the lame last pitch which also forces you to down climb in a frustrating attempt to gain the five fingers rappel. Rap after the second pitch and stay happy! Normally I am against just climbing the 'fun' pitches of a route, not finishing it, and then claiming you climbed the route... but in this case don't feel bad, rap. May 2, 2004
Peter Gram
Cupertino, CA
 
Peter Gram   Cupertino, CA  
 
Agreed. I rapped after pitch 2 as well. Otherwise, it would be a bit of a hoof to get back to the gear at the base of the climb. Also, route quality looks like it diminishes. May 2, 2004
Vince Romney  
 
One of my first routes (c1980) and I still enjoy it! If you remember a few months back it made the back-page spread for AAJ accidents in Rock and Ice (or was it Climbing) when a climber clipped one of the manky pins at the top part of Pitch 2, fell, pulled the pin and smacked the dihedral below. New leaders should stay alert to the potential pancake... and as always, view pins with suspicion. May 11, 2004
John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
 
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Wasn't the accident report in relation to Perhaps? Perhaps I am wrong... (sorry I couldn't resist...) either way, still a good reminder to back up pins if you are able. May 27, 2004
Vince Romney  
 
Well John, there's proof that the mind goes with old age. I looked through my Rock and Ice archives and it was indeed Perhaps... I wonder when I'll start needing Depends? Jun 9, 2004
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.7
This is best done in one pitch to the second rap anchor - you reach easily with a 60 meter rope and there is no drag. This is my new favorite pitch in LCC. Jun 9, 2004
Leroy Fielding
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
Leroy Fielding   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
Also watch out for a fat, sneaky squirrel that knows how to open zippers!!! I lost 3 clif bars to this little @#$%! He waited until my second was 20 feet of the ground, then went straight for the packs.... Fantastic route regardless. Jun 30, 2004
Others are not joking about the fat, sneaky squirrel that hangs out at the base of this climb. It has figured out how to open zippers! I am not kidding. I lost a Cliff bar and it nibbled through a plastic bag in my partner's pack.. Aug 3, 2004
Steve Allison
  5.8+
Steve Allison  
  5.8+
Climbed to the second chain set then scrambled up to the 5.4 portion of Beckey's Wall and immediately traversed to the right to the bottom of Pebbles and Bambam (5.9). There are five bolts and double chain at the top. Great View! Rap down to the tree - walk left to Beckey's 2nd chain. Rap to bottom from there w/ 60 m rope. What a great climb! I wondered what got into my pack and ate a hole in my Cliff Bar! See photo for route. Sep 28, 2004
Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.7
Nathan Fisher   St George  
  5.7
Finally got off my fat wintering butt, and climbed this today. What was I waiting for? Other than the greasiness this climb was great. But of course the greasiness goes hand in hand with greatness. I didn't actually do the last pitch as we went right onto the bolted slab. Feb 26, 2005
David Shiembob
slc, ut
 
David Shiembob   slc, ut
 
This is sweet route. I'm just starting on trad, and that second pitch was definitely the steepest thing I've lead, I was so stoked when I topped out on it. We also rapped from the 2nd set of anchors to avoid the walk-off.

That squirrel is outrageous! I saw the thing as I was belaying my second up the first pitch and thought it was a raccoon! I returned to find all the stuff in the top pouch of my pack (which I coould have sworn the zipper was closed on...) spread around. Found the wrapper for my clifbar in the bushes nearby. It also gnawed apart the case of my leatherman! Consider hanging packs from a tree or something, that thing is living the easy life up there. Jul 11, 2005
vincent pierce  
  5.7
As good a 5.7 as you will ever find. Routes of this grade are rarely this steep but those holds up high are soooo good. Sep 13, 2005
d-know
electric lady land
  5.7
d-know   electric lady land
  5.7
one of my favorite full moon runs. figer tip variation is excellent also. Jan 25, 2006
Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.7
Nathan Fisher   St George  
  5.7
If one decides to do the 3rd 5.4 pitch, gain the ledge with the tree and walk right to the chains of Pebbles and Bambam. This will eliminate the need for a walk-off. You can now rap down to the midway belay station, then rap to the top of Beckey's, and 2 more to the ground.

With that said the 5.4 pitch is just that...5.4. However, this is the funny part, my partner felt the 5.4 on Beckey's 3rd pitch was easier than the greasy approach crack to the Dihedrals. You know....the 4th class scramble. I would agree. Aug 30, 2006
Lee Gitlin
  5.7
Lee Gitlin  
  5.7
P1 is fairly short and low angled, although the hand jams seemed shallower than they appear at first glance. Great feet, though, provided you get then into the crack.

P2 makes the climb. Steep, but better hand holds, especially the bomber flakes just below topping out. Great rests, great canyon views ... don't miss this LCC classic.

P3 is probably not worth doing, unless you have an obsessive-complusive need for completion. Kind of lessens the climb, actually.

The route is sun exposed and radiates heat. Bring plenty of liquid and sunscreen. Then, clean your hands before you shove them into that crack! Aug 31, 2006
So, it has been documented before, but it seems the urban (mountain) legend goes on that this was climbed by Beckey and Kor. I realise that it has been thus recorded in every Guidebook that has been published since that time.
I have spoken to Fred a number of times about it. Rosylyn Stewart was his partner and he was hoping to impress her with a first ascent hoping maybe that it would lead to other adventures even more to his taste. I think it did.
Kor never climbed on Beckey's Wall with Fred. Hopefully, this urban legend will be corrected in future guidebooks....even like this one! Nov 21, 2007
Tosh Peters
Park City, UT
Tosh Peters   Park City, UT
finally got on this earlier this week, only did the first 2 pitches and it was great. good for beginning leaders. May 8, 2008
Floridaputz
Oakland Park, Florida
Floridaputz   Oakland Park, Florida
The second pitch was all the fun. I just had to climb it because of the history and popularity. We did the Pebbles and Bam Bam finish. Which I recommend if you like slab climbing. Jul 1, 2008
demian
 
demian  
 
Great route! Next time I'll sew 1 and 2 together, I was hesitant without knowledge of the gear. A standard rack and a couple extra #2 ish cams is perfect to top out to the second anchor. We did the 3rd because Pebbles and BamBam looked run out. We TR'd Pebbles after and realized that the route does break left and what looked like runout was actually fine. Rapped w/ twin 60m rotes from Pebbles to top of 2nd and again to the deck. Fun for the whole family! Nov 1, 2008
cragsavvy
Salt Lake City
cragsavvy   Salt Lake City
Excellent route! We placed a red tri cam in July of 2010 on the second pitch, and unfortunately it was left a causality. It was pretty welded, but someone may have gotten it out. Otherwise, clip it and move on, it's a bomber piece! We did this in 2 pitches with a 60 meter rope. When the climb goes dead vertical it gets really fun with a good crack for gear and some awkward moves. Belay at chains. Highly recommend. Standard rack, bigger pieces for the top part. Sep 25, 2010
Brandon Caldwell
Salt Lake City, UT
5.7
Brandon Caldwell   Salt Lake City, UT
5.7
Great climb but be careful after rain as the second pitch up to the chains gets really wet and can be a bit sketchy. Oct 29, 2010
Matt Brodhead
Logan, UT
 
Matt Brodhead   Logan, UT
 
Clip the old pin above pitch #1 chains for nostalgia. Nov 28, 2010
Andrewprime1 Arredondo
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7+
Andrewprime1 Arredondo   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7+
I did this climb a few days ago on my birthday. It was a super fun, ultra classic climb. I would definitely climb the first two pitches. The third looked like a bit of a scramble, so we decided to skip it. There is still a bong bong half way up the second pitch that was solid! Jul 14, 2011
Ryan202
West Jordan, UT
Ryan202   West Jordan, UT
Great climb! My first trad lead. P1 is super short. We just linked P1 and P2 together. Was a party of 3...the belay station at the top of P2 was cramped, but was super fun just to hang out on a vertical face. Great views with the sun setting. Biggest cam I used was a #1, there are places for a 2 and maybe a 3 towards the end of P2. May 8, 2012
Nate Flink
Minneapolis, MN
 
Nate Flink   Minneapolis, MN
 
Climbed this route yesterday, to the anchors of the second pitch, and was able to rap to almost make it to the base with a 70m rope with rope stretch, with about 8' of easy moves of down climbing. Tie knots at ends of rope. Sep 27, 2012
Pixtonian
Salt lake city, Utah
 
Pixtonian   Salt lake city, Utah
 
watch out for the bee hive at the end of the second pitch. If you go left you may run into them. I don't know why you would go left but my buddy did and he got stung. It made for some good humor. Last week. Aug 7, 2013
ARMoss
  5.7
ARMoss  
  5.7
Not that you'd necessarily want to, but you can tie all three pitches together (with a good bit of drag) on a 70m line. Just barely reaches. Sep 9, 2013
max huecksteadt
Bozeman
  5.7
max huecksteadt   Bozeman
  5.7
Heads up for wasps- there were plenty out today, although mild-mannered enough. The fun flakes and great stances on the second pitch made the climb, just link the two! Oct 5, 2013
nice little video of Fred if anyone is interested
Probably appeared on other sites as well…...

alpinfieber.net/fred-beckey… Nov 9, 2013
Thumer
SLC, UT
  5.7
Thumer   SLC, UT
  5.7
There are some rap bolts about 30' below the belay tree at the top of pitch 3. You can rappel from those bolts to the top of pitch 2 with a 60 m rope. Aug 22, 2015
Nick Roush  
 
I stayed in the low angle crack past the bolts, built a gear anchor where the crack goes vertical. Buddy went up to the bolts halfway up the 3rd pitch. Made for 2 fun, slightly longer pitches. Apr 10, 2016
BigNobody
all over, mostly Utah
BigNobody   all over, mostly Utah
Kids these days ^^^^ Jun 8, 2017
Matty Coles
Salt Lake City
 
Matty Coles   Salt Lake City
 
In case anyone is wondering...

if you link the first 2 pitches from the ground, you CAN NOT lower back to the ground or even to the first set of anchors with a 70m (at least I was told it was a 70m). Tie those knots in the ends, and bring a rappel device.

What a great 2nd Pitch!

Worth the hassle.

Also thought gear placement was a little sparse on the lower section before the flake wall. Jun 28, 2017
Alex Temus
Utah
  5.7
Alex Temus   Utah
  5.7
Pitch 1, Pitch 3, and even the first half of Pitch 2 are probably deserving of 1 star, they're low angle, with crappy holds in a disappearing "crack" and take generally terrible pro. The good section (25-30 feet of the 2nd pitch) is quality with sweet flakes, jugs, stemming, and pro, but that wall section is short, you have to go through quite a bit of "meh" climbing to get to it and unless you sew up the first half of the wall, you'll still have a pretty good chance of hitting the deck and busting your ankles despite almost 100 feet of climbing. The route's just not all it's cracked up to be.

This isn't meant to disrespect Fred Beckey, or anything close to that - he's put up more routes I consider "classic" than anybody I know of - this just isn't one of them. Aug 13, 2017
Benjamin August
Salt Lake City
 
Benjamin August   Salt Lake City
 
A two rope rappel from the second belay station is a cozy set up. Beckey's is one of my absolute favorites. Aug 8, 2018
Tony Albano
  5.7
Tony Albano  
  5.7
Great climb. I led with my 12 yr old following. It was a nice intro for him to multi-pitch, though we rapped after pitch 2, as recommended. Started around 2PM and had shade from the dihedral the whole way. Aug 8, 2018
Samantha Mitchell
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Samantha Mitchell   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I had to bail off a blue nut on the first pitch due to a wasp attack today. If anyone has it in their heart to grab the nut + biner and return it that'd be rad. You can PM me on Mountain Project. Also, watch out for the wasps nesting in the crack above a blue nut! :) Sep 13, 2018 · Lost & Found
Ryan Rex
  5.7+
Ryan Rex  
  5.7+
Beckey is an OG, but this is the most overrated moderate in the canyon imo. I climbed it again, giving it the benefit of the doubt, and I still thought it wasn’t special enough to justify the approach, lines, and lame 1.5 pitches of climbing for an okay half pitch of climbing that climbs more like a sport climb anyways. Not a hater, just think it’s overrated because of the name 3 days ago

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