Type: Trad, 160 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Fred Beckey and Roslyn Stewart '61
Page Views: 35,996 total · 183/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on May 1, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Beckey's Wall climbs the prominent right facing dihedral just right of Satan's Corner and left of Tarzan. Pitches 1 and 2 are often combined.

P1) Climb up slabby low angle dihedral for a short pitch to get to a set of chain anchors. (5.6)
P2) Continue up the dihedral, doing some fun stemming up to a piton. Then climb up the steep dihedral, using flakes on the left face. Finish at a ledge with 3 bolts with chains. (5.7)

From here, one option is to rap to the top of pitch 1, and then to the ground. Otherwise, continue up an easier wide crack to a belay and a tree. Then a down climb must be done to get to the Five Fingers rappel, then doing a one rope rappel.

Protection

Standard Rack. Mostly smaller stuff, but I placed up to a #3 camalot.

History

This is [part of] a letter from Fred recently about the FA of Beckey's Wall. I thought it deserved to be saved and pasted here. The guy has unlimited energy, no question about that. This does clear up any of the previous dispute about fixed gear originally placed on this climb. I think it is great for the record:

"Yes, I did the route with Roslyn Stewart. The guidebook people sure are slow getting it changed. I know Eric B. told them more than once we did not place a bolt anywhere. Likely we rapped from pitons or trees. My guess is that we did it in 2 pitches. I have a shot on the climb, looking down; a poor but visible photo.

"Across the canyon, yes, Kor and I did something. I think the book prob. has it right."

¬óJames Garrett

Photos