Type: Trad, 145 ft
FA: FFA - Brian Smoot 1979
Page Views: 4,249 total · 33/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on May 4, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

9 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


From where you split right from Becky's Wall, a thin lieback leads up and right past a bolt (where an old knifeblade used to be). Then you gain a rightward undercling right, climbing underneath the large roof past another bolt. At the far end of the traverse you gain the Split Pants gully. I belayed in the gully. You can either continue up Split Pants or rappel from a tree down to the first anchors of Cheetah, and then from there to the base. An excellent route!


Start on Becky's Wall and where Becky's and the Fingertip Variation go straight up, climb right up under the large roof.


A selection of stoppers, and small cams up to a #2 camalot sized piece. There are sections where it is mandatory to punch it between gear!


bheller   SL UT
This route is awesome! It was definitley cutting edge when done in pre sticky rubber EB's with pins! After leaving Beckey's wall and clipping the first bolt expect a 12+ foot run-out of delicate smears and seam liebacking before a hand size cam protects in the obvious pod. Clipping the second bolt is insecure, so be sure to protect in the pod first. After the 2nd bolt, one more hand size piece protects the second roof pod. You can build an anchor and belay from a stance at the right end of the roof (so you can see your seconding climber) with a purple tcu a small nut and a red metolius. To descend, perform an easy traverse right and rap the tree in the gully. With a singel rappel, letting the ends slip through on a 70m and a couple feet of down climbing barely puts you on the ledge for the start of what I believe is cheetah. Do it! Sep 8, 2008
CalmAdrenaline   SL,UT
excellent route! The move after the micronut is spicy~
You can protect the 12+ foot runout Bheller talks about with a micro nut , its not awesome, but adequate. Jan 13, 2009
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Beware, the crux liebacking above the first bolt is on a extremely thin seam. I would not call it a crack of any kind. No french free possible here. And it is a long way to that next placement. I'm a pansy so I did not find this climb very fun. Another bolt would increase my star rating, but props to the FA's on this one. Too hardcore for me. Oct 1, 2012
Bob Rotert
Bob Rotert  
This route is awesome and was feared by most back in the day. The knife blade that was originally their didn't offer much even in the form of psychological pro. Thought it was closer to 11+ back then but that was in EB's. Hell of a lead by Mr. Smoot! I did a continuation of this route with Mark Rolofson and Les Ellison. @ 1983 It adds some more run out 5.10 climbing up and left from the end of the roof and was some pretty good climbing as I recall.
We called it the Lunch Bucket variation. May 8, 2015
1st assent,probably, Bill Conrad and Paul Anderson in spring 1964. Thinking they were on "Tingeys Terror" Paul,after repeated falls, decided he forgotten how to climb or Ralph was much better than we believed. Make a long story short , they aided the route and so did others till it was freed. Lenny Nelson S.L.C. 29 AUG 2018 Aug 28, 2018
LOL...Thanks Lenny for the cool history, glad I'm not the only one who got sandbagged by getting lost on different routes back in the old days! Aug 29, 2018