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Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Gate Buttress
> Beckey's Wall Area
Split Pants
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 1.3 from 10
votes
Routes in Beckey's Wall Area
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"Elementary Dear Watson" T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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3rd Crack Over T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Axis of Evil Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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baloney on white T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Beckey's Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cheetah T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Date with Fate T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Date With Kate T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X |
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East of Eden T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Fingertrip Variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Fruit Loops T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Fudd Ledge Left Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hesitate No More T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R |
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Hesitation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Independent Streak T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Last Caress T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Last Caress, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Needle's Eye Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Orange Sling, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Pebbles and Bambam S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Shaken Climber Syndrome S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Siesta T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Split Decision T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Split Fingers T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Split Pants T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sweet Jane Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tarzan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tingey's Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tingey's Terror T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tingey's Torture T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tourist Variation (Split Pants) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Watergate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Weapons of Mass Destruction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 220 ft (67 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Dick Ream, Rich Ream, Court Richards 1962 |
| Page Views: | 2,861 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Nathan Fisher on Jun 15, 2007 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
An interesting route to say the least.
P1. Start in the chimney/squeeze right of Beckey's and left of Cheetah. Climb up this and continue to thrash your way through the trees, and broken climbing. You can stop at the slung tree or continue on pitch 2 as one long pitch.
P2. Continue up the gully/crack system occasionally finding some good moves, otherwise it is the same tree thrash/gully romp as the first pitch. Stop at the next slung tree.
P3. Continue up the crack system (drool as you look at Needle's Eye Variation (my next trip up I will climb this)), and start angling right to get to the roof. Undercling the roof all the way right until you can clip a piton around the corner, make a delicate step around and belay at the tree.
First two pitches are not all that special, but the last pitch was really fun, albeit with griity rock.
The book rates this a 5.6. If I compared this traverse to Perhaps, this was distinctly harder. (My two cents) I felt 5.8 was more accurate.
P1. Start in the chimney/squeeze right of Beckey's and left of Cheetah. Climb up this and continue to thrash your way through the trees, and broken climbing. You can stop at the slung tree or continue on pitch 2 as one long pitch.
P2. Continue up the gully/crack system occasionally finding some good moves, otherwise it is the same tree thrash/gully romp as the first pitch. Stop at the next slung tree.
P3. Continue up the crack system (drool as you look at Needle's Eye Variation (my next trip up I will climb this)), and start angling right to get to the roof. Undercling the roof all the way right until you can clip a piton around the corner, make a delicate step around and belay at the tree.
First two pitches are not all that special, but the last pitch was really fun, albeit with griity rock.
The book rates this a 5.6. If I compared this traverse to Perhaps, this was distinctly harder. (My two cents) I felt 5.8 was more accurate.
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