Type: Trad, 220 ft (67 m), 3 pitches
FA: Dick Ream, Rich Ream, Court Richards 1962
Page Views: 2,834 total · 14/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 15, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

You & This Route

10 Opinions
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Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

An interesting route to say the least.

P1. Start in the chimney/squeeze right of Beckey's and left of Cheetah. Climb up this and continue to thrash your way through the trees, and broken climbing. You can stop at the slung tree or continue on pitch 2 as one long pitch.

P2. Continue up the gully/crack system occasionally finding some good moves, otherwise it is the same tree thrash/gully romp as the first pitch. Stop at the next slung tree.

P3. Continue up the crack system (drool as you look at Needle's Eye Variation (my next trip up I will climb this)), and start angling right to get to the roof. Undercling the roof all the way right until you can clip a piton around the corner, make a delicate step around and belay at the tree.

First two pitches are not all that special, but the last pitch was really fun, albeit with griity rock.

The book rates this a 5.6. If I compared this traverse to Perhaps, this was distinctly harder. (My two cents) I felt 5.8 was more accurate.

Location Suggest change

Chimney/gully between Cheetah and Baloney on White/Beckey's Wall.

Protection Suggest change

Slings for trees, runners for rope drag, standard rack. There are 5 pitons on the last pitch.