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Last Caress
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.8 from 12
votes
Routes in Beckey's Wall Area
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"Elementary Dear Watson" T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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3rd Crack Over T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Axis of Evil Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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baloney on white T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Beckey's Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cheetah T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Date with Fate T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Date With Kate T X |
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East of Eden T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Fingertrip Variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Fruit Loops T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Fudd Ledge Left Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hesitate No More T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R |
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Hesitation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Independent Streak T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Last Caress T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Needle's Eye Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Orange Sling, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Pebbles and Bambam S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Shaken Climber Syndrome S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Siesta T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Split Decision T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Split Fingers T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Split Pants T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sweet Jane Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tarzan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tingey's Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tingey's Terror T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tingey's Torture T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tourist Variation (Split Pants) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Unknown Funky Wide Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Watergate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
| Type: | Trad, 290 ft (88 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | P1- Tyler Phillips, Patrick Bardsley, Chris McDonald 2012 / P2- Tyler Phillips and Pat Bardsley May 2023 |
| Page Views: | 546 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Steve Climber on Oct 23, 2021 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Alternate pitch for pitch 1 of Tingey's Torture.
P1- From the bolted anchor under pitch 1 of Tingy's Torture , pad out climbers right to 3 bolts on the edge of the slab. Follow bolts up slab, work through a thin crack and flake system past a pin and another bolt on a slab. Aim towards a low angle hand/fist crack, and blast straight up the slab above this or follow the crack and up and left into the gully; both lead to a bolted anchor. 5.8+
From TP : If doing the second pitch this is the best way: Have the the follower come up but not to the bolted anchor, have them slab left (west) and build a natural belay to the left of the 5.6 dihedral, look for the bolts above, have the second pad over and join.
P2- Clip a bolt and climb up to a small black chip, step on this and get ready for some slapping, under clinging and moving up to a large chickenhead to another bolt. Excellent slabbing brings one to the lip where an exceptional chickenhead awaits your mantle to get up and over. 5.8+
Slab upwards and right to re-join Tingy's Torture, or slide over to the low angle dihedral on the left and build a belay. Re-join the last 40 feet of the last pitch of Tingy's Torture to the top.
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