Type: Trad, 210 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 13,616 total · 75/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Mar 30, 2004 with updates from Peter Lenz
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


The second pitch of this is absolutely superb - one of the best dihedrals I have ever done. It will be wet when everything else is dry, but it is still reasonable if it is dripping a bit.

Find the big easy looking dihedral downhill from the Green Adjective thin crack, and just right of a hard looking sport route ("All Chalk, No Action").

P1: Climb up the dihedral for about 40 feet, and traverse right at a fixed pin. Make sure to protect the second on this traverse - it is a bit thin. Belay at chains around the corner from the pin. 60', 5.7

P2: Climb the long dihedral that traverses right along the bottom of several roofs. This pitch is long, beautiful, and sustained 5.5 or 5.6 The corners of the roofs love to eat the rope and give heinous drag, so try to place a piece at these corners to guide the rope along. It is best to set up a belay if the rope drag gets to be too bad. After about 140' of this, escape right into an easy gully and downclimb 10' or so to the anchors on the Green Adjective.

One rope rap leads to the ground from here.


If doing it in 2 pitches and 5.7 is your limit, bring a good sized rack from small to 3 camalot.
John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
This is a nice route for the grade, in the canyon, but the downclimbing at the end definitely detracts from the overall quality in my opinion. Fun, good climb... not exceptional. Protect the traverses! May 26, 2004
Nathan Fisher
St George
Nathan Fisher   St George  
This climb was a blast and very different. Up/over/up/over/up/over/down. It did, however, have 2 negatives. First being the 1st pitch inconsistency. One move to get off the ground, followed by a length of relatively easy climbing, followed by a nice traverse to the anchors. Second. The downclimb at the end. Downclimbing in and of itself isn't too bad, however easy scrambling down is bad. Also, watch the swallows, as there still seems to be nests.

Oh yeah, don't forget the downclimb, liek I almost did. I am just zipping along, looking at the slab to the north (drooling), and my belayer yells "You're not there yet?" I look down and kinda south and well, there I was. Aug 4, 2004
vincent pierce  
A really fun route. It's real long but it's such a cruiser that u finish before u know it. The little downclimb wasn't "fun" but it shouldn't stop anyone from doing the route.The book has kept me away from this for a while with its description of nasty rope drag but... if u use slings and protect the corners it isn't bad at all. I saw no need for the optional belay in the middle of pitch 2. Nov 18, 2004
Bobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
Bobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
This route is great. When I did this a few years ago for the first time, I said to Justin, "That was SPECTANGULAR!" We both laughed. A couple weeks later while we were in Red Rocks, Justin realized that the associated word, RECTACULAR, isn't as appealing.

Rope drag isn't too bad if you runner long and choose your placements wisely. It is imperative that you protect the second on the traverse and downclimb. A couple years ago a climber was experiencing heinous rope drag while traversing. He clipped the pin, pulled up a bunch of slack, then fell. The pin pulled and he had a bad ledge fall. May 31, 2005
electric lady land
d-know   electric lady land
done in 1 pitch w/70 meter rope adds a little more fun, using some long runners and a little rope strategy. Jan 25, 2006
A fun route. Sep 9, 2006
Buff Johnson
Buff Johnson  
Fun, but more traversing than crack climbing, made P2 into 3 pitches to protect the second. Sep 20, 2006
We used to do the 2nd pitch with only three pieces of pro, because of the rope-drag. It's an easy .7, and three pieces allow you to really cruise along the elegant dihedral. Dec 9, 2009
3 pieces? Why bother w/the rope? Dec 9, 2009
Jon Behrmann
Jon Behrmann   Herriman
Donovan's Comments: The crux P1. A nice little smear across a wall with almost nothing to grab or crimp. Gets the blood flowing. Looks nice and easy til you get on there. A fun lead or follow.
youtube.com/watch?v=rgBPqNL… Sep 12, 2010
Way to protect your 2nd. Der. Sep 12, 2010
Salt Lake City
cragsavvy   Salt Lake City
Great fun climbing! One very awkward, exposed step and the end of the first pitch. From there follow the obvious cracks. There are a few stuck cams, but so far in I wouldn't imagine anyone getting them out. Watch out for birds in the crack, they like it in there! Also, set a belay above the Green A anchors, then scramble down to them. You can TR the Green A from these anchors with a 60 meter rope. A very quality climb well worth doing!!! Sep 25, 2010
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
Learn to protect your second, place gear, slab climb and post worthy content. Apr 5, 2011
Zac Robinson
Salt Lake City, UT
Zac Robinson   Salt Lake City, UT
Boissal wrote:Learn to protect your second, place gear, slab climb and post worthy content.
I'll give you 3/4 of those. On a good day. Apr 7, 2011
West Jordan, Utah
Donovan   West Jordan, Utah
Dude, that was totally protected up above. I agree it doesn't show it well, but it wasn't filmed so we could put it up on MP. I guess that was an after thought. If we had that in mind we would have shown our gear placement to protect a potential pendulum. I'll see if he will at least edit his description so it mentions it. Thanks for your concern.
Apr 10, 2011
Had a little surprise in the initial Perhaps/Gordon's corner this evening. Stepped up in the corner and startled a baby rattler in the crack. Beware - little fella looked like he was digging his spot - and not digging me 2 feet away from him... Jul 22, 2011
Wenatchee, WA
DrApnea   Wenatchee, WA
Watch the rope drag. Can be protected with long draws and medium to large passive gear only if you are interested in doing so. But be sure to protect traverse. There was an article in one of the climbing magazines a few years back about the need to question fixed gear which told of a climber taking a huge pendulum with major spine injuries because of an old fixed piton that pulled out on this route. Oct 29, 2011
Los Alamos, NM
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
Incredibly clean and uber classic. The comment about doing it in one pitch with a 70 m rope is spot-on. However, done this way, it didn't feel like a gimme 5.7. Jun 18, 2012
Maybe I'm just a bumbly, but I always thought that initial traverse to the right was...like...5.7d...anyway, if you are a budding traditional climber working through the grades, get solid at 5.7 before you hit this one. Oh, the rest of the route is fantastic, and I love goin' all Quasimoto across those underclings. May 30, 2015
Zak Munro
VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
Zak Munro   VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
doubles from .75 to 2 would be nice Nov 28, 2017
HenryHartzler   SLC, UT
Good route for the grade and love the long traverse! Definitely unique. May 20, 2018
Peter Lenz
Salt Lake City
Peter Lenz   Salt Lake City
I love this route. In my opinion, the greatest danger on this route is to the follower, and not the leader. The main problem for the leader is protecting the traverses for the follower. Although the prevailing published opinion is that single cams to #3 is a sufficient rack, I like bringing two #0.3 and two #4 cams, and a #5.
You can protect the follower on the first pitch traverse very well if you place two 0.3 cams high up between the pin and the belay.
You can greatly enhance the safety of the follower on the final traverse better if you bring a #5, and place it before, and above the down climb.
If you choose to protect frequently on the 2nd pitch (as I do), you will probably want to break up the 2nd pitch into two pitches, due to rope drag issues. Jun 2, 2018