Avg: 3 from 339 votes
|Type:||Trad, 210 ft (64 m), 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||16,785 total · 79/month|
|Shared By:||Andrew Gram on Mar 30, 2004 · Updates|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
The second pitch of this is absolutely superb - one of the best dihedrals I have ever done. It will be wet when everything else is dry, but it is still reasonable if it is dripping a bit.
Find the big easy looking dihedral downhill from the Green Adjective thin crack, and just right of a hard looking sport route ("All Chalk, No Action").
P1: Climb up the dihedral for about 40 feet, and traverse right across slab to a good ledge. Make sure to protect the second on this traverse - it is a bit thin. Belay at chains around the corner from the traverse. 60', 5.7
P2: Climb the long dihedral that traverses right along the bottom of several roofs. This pitch is long, beautiful, and sustained 5.5 or 5.6 The corners of the roofs love to eat the rope and give heinous drag, so try to place a piece at these corners to guide the rope along. It is best to set up a belay if the rope drag gets to be too bad. After about 140' of this, escape right into an easy gully and downclimb 10' or so to the anchors on the Green Adjective.
One rope rap leads to the ground from here.