Type: Trad, 210 ft (64 m), 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 15,696 total · 78/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Mar 30, 2004 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

The second pitch of this is absolutely superb - one of the best dihedrals I have ever done. It will be wet when everything else is dry, but it is still reasonable if it is dripping a bit.

Find the big easy looking dihedral downhill from the Green Adjective thin crack, and just right of a hard looking sport route ("All Chalk, No Action").

P1: Climb up the dihedral for about 40 feet, and traverse right at a fixed pin. Make sure to protect the second on this traverse - it is a bit thin. Belay at chains around the corner from the pin. 60', 5.7

P2: Climb the long dihedral that traverses right along the bottom of several roofs. This pitch is long, beautiful, and sustained 5.5 or 5.6 The corners of the roofs love to eat the rope and give heinous drag, so try to place a piece at these corners to guide the rope along. It is best to set up a belay if the rope drag gets to be too bad. After about 140' of this, escape right into an easy gully and downclimb 10' or so to the anchors on the Green Adjective.

One rope rap leads to the ground from here.

Protection

If doing it in 2 pitches and 5.7 is your limit, bring a good sized rack from small to 3 camalot.

Photos