Type: Trad, 90 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 1978, Rick Bradshaw/Dave Jenkins
Page Views: 2,710 total · 14/month
Shared By: Vince Romney on May 17, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

From the top of The Green Adjective, head up grooves and flakes to the large roof. An easy undercling traverse left (always wet early in the year) places you at a steep dihedral with a tips to fingers crack.

This is a good place to set a couple bomber pieces if you chose not to protect the traverse due to impending rope drag. Exciting lieback moves place you at a stance with small edges, and then continue up and right to a platform.

From here, angle up and right, through an off-balance move to a ramp, which ultimately achieves the first belay.

The second pitch moves left along the base of the huge shield until it reaches a wide crack on the left of the shield. Ascend this crack, with the occasional off-width move to the top and belay on the large shelf.

Protection

Cams to 3" and a set of stoppers. Rope drag can be a big problem if you choose to protect the 5.5 undercling traverse from the top of the Green "A".

Descent

Scramble about 150' down to the anchors at the top of Touch Up.

Photos