Avg: 2.5 from 77 votes
|Type:||Trad, 90 ft (27 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||1978, Rick Bradshaw/Dave Jenkins|
|Page Views:||3,458 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||Vince Romney on May 17, 2003|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
This is a good place to set a couple bomber pieces if you chose not to protect the traverse due to impending rope drag. Exciting lieback moves place you at a stance with small edges, and then continue up and right to a platform.
From here, angle up and right, through an off-balance move to a ramp, which ultimately achieves the first belay.
The second pitch moves left along the base of the huge shield until it reaches a wide crack on the left of the shield. Ascend this crack, with the occasional off-width move to the top and belay on the large shelf.