Type: Trad, 90 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 1978, Rick Bradshaw/Dave Jenkins
Page Views: 2,595 total · 14/month
Shared By: Vince Romney on May 17, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

60 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


From the top of The Green Adjective, head up grooves and flakes to the large roof. An easy undercling traverse left (always wet early in the year) places you at a steep dihedral with a tips to fingers crack.

This is a good place to set a couple bomber pieces if you chose not to protect the traverse due to impending rope drag. Exciting lieback moves place you at a stance with small edges, and then continue up and right to a platform.

From here, angle up and right, through an off-balance move to a ramp, which ultimately achieves the first belay.

The second pitch moves left along the base of the huge shield until it reaches a wide crack on the left of the shield. Ascend this crack, with the occasional off-width move to the top and belay on the large shelf.


Cams to 3" and a set of stoppers. Rope drag can be a big problem if you choose to protect the 5.5 undercling traverse from the top of the Green "A".


Scramble about 150' down to the anchors at the top of Touch Up.


Nice boulder problem for that grade but the .9 part just above it is more fun and memorable. loads of gear to protect the crux. Feb 11, 2007
I recommend the direct slab traverse from the top of green A direct to the dihedral, no rope drag, big runout. Probably only 5.7 climbing to the first piece. Dec 4, 2008
Shaun Greene
Shaun Greene   www.UtahShaun.com
It is probably worth mentioning, you can set up a really solid gear belay at the bottom of this climb IE directly in the corner before the traverse to the top of pitch 1 of green adjective. There are ample opportunities to set gear and establish a well equalized three to four piece anchor. This helps to alleviate the rope drag issues that have been mentioned in the above comments. Feb 28, 2009
steven sadler
steven sadler   SLC, UT
Did this the other day and the traverse is way easy. Just run it out from the chains of the green A to the corner. Really fun climb with a really awkward move above the lie back. Jan 20, 2012
Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
You can back clean the traverse if you don't want to run it out. Also if your fingers are too fat for the layback you can face climb that section on the left. May 30, 2014
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
15 feet of initial great climbing. Mediocre climbing on flexies for another 40' to rap bolts. Jun 5, 2014
Greg Gavin
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
Clean out the upper crack yesterday. Aug 8, 2014
engineer1984 Whicker   Ogden, UT
We only did the 1st pitch of MA1. This description says the 2nd pitch is climbers left. What route goes climber's right? There is at least one bolt that way.

(FWIW, we ended up getting on this via Perhaps and building an anchor at the bottom of the lieback corner) Dec 7, 2014
I placed two "0" TCUs in the dihedral, and these were bomber! I only did this route once, and not liking what I saw if I continued up the dihedral proper, I stepped back down to the slab went a few feet to the left and did a boulder-type problem there that included two mantles. I felt the moves to be ten "A"-ish and better protected. I agree that this route had about 20 feet of fun climbing, followed by unremarkable movement to the rap. This is a cool way to add vertical to an ascent of the Green A, and the climbing from that belay up to the dihedral of MA #1 is easy...runout, but easy. May 31, 2015
Great little variation! I would highly recommend this.

This route is not run out and I did not find the movement awkward. Definitely some thought provoking sequences, but that is it. Great stuff! May 4, 2017