Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Heinrich
Page Views: 2,834 total · 18/month
Shared By: d-know on Jan 25, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This route is on the blunt prow left of where old reliable succumbed to the ages. Start atop old reliable carnage in double cracks to gain the sloping ledge where the first bolt is clipped. Follow bolts (good foot work neccessary) to the sheer face w/right-diagonaling crack. Follow crack to commiting finish moves. One of my favorite clip-ups in the canyon.

Protection

Medium-to-small cams for the start. Stoppers or TCUs for top crack. QDs.

Photos

There is a fixed nut in that top crack. Jul 10, 2007
David Shiembob
slc, ut
5.12
David Shiembob   slc, ut
5.12
wow, this seemed really hard, I couldn't even do a bunch of the moves on it. The fixed nut is still there. Oct 15, 2007
Ben Ricketts
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12c
Ben Ricketts   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12c
I like the quote "One of my favorite clip ups in the canyon." It is a great clip up - with 15 feet of 5.10 crack climbing and then ends with maybe 30 feet of gear climbing, including the crux.

It is a great route, highly recommended and it is really well protected. I also think this one is probably 12c. Oct 5, 2013
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Fixed nut is gone. bummer! Jun 20, 2014