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Routes in Green Adjective Gully

After The Fall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
All Chalk And No Action S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Badlands S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beaked Whale T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beastie Boys T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Creep Show T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dawdling Pigalottos T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Divine Intervention A2
Eve Traverse, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a C1+
Fallen Arches T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Fallen Arches Approach T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fourth and Inches T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Golden Showers T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goodro's Nightmare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gordon's Direct T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Gordon's Hangover T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Green Adjective, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hem Line T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Holy Ghost T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Last First Crack T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Looney Tunes T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Lucid Dreaming T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
MA 1 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Meat Puppets S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mother of Pearl T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Nostrum 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2
Orange Crush S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Perhaps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Perhaps Direct T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Perhaps Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pill Billy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pins, Bashies, Matches and Beer T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prepositional Phrase S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sinsemilla Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
St. Alphonso's Pancake Breakfast T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stitches T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stormy Resurrection T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stranger Than Friction S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Subordinate Claws TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surprise Ending T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
This Is Almost the Place T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Touch Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Trinity Right T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unreliable T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Wheeler Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wheels on Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wheels on Fire Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Why Me? T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Steve Hong, Steve Carruthers, late 80's
Page Views: 4,517 total, 28/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 10, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Just right of the flake on Gordon's Hangover is a seam (thin crack) that works to the chains. A reachy initial move leads to thin fingers and good feet, then right at the bolt, one must reach again. Well protected crux move.

Protection

1 bolt on the route, some small nuts, and a couple of medium cams. Plus, whatever you will need to get to the start as it shares a lot with Gordon's Hangover.
Ben Ricketts
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Ben Ricketts   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Thanks for the historical note stj. I've always wondered about that bolt. Jan 17, 2017
stj
 
stj  
 
A historical note about the bolt and the R rating:

The bolt was added in the early 90's at least 7 years after the FFA, replacing 2 fixed pins that had been there for years before the FFA. The FA of this route was in 1974 by Don Black and Pete Gibbs, at F7 A3. The bolt replaced the fixed pins after one of them failed.

The 5.9R move off the pedestal used to be harder to protect. The beta I got when I first led it in 1996 was: slot in a #0 RP with a #1 RP nested next to it. I went and bought a #0 RP just for this route, it's rated for aid only. The #0 was pretty solid, the #1 was lame but the idea was that maybe the #1 would take some weight and block the #0 from popping out. As these pieces were above your head when pulling the tricky move, it didn't feel dangerous as long as you had the #0. Anything bigger would hang halfway out and didn't inspire confidence. Without that microgear, a fall would send you swinging dangerously back into the pedestal.

Around '98, one of my partners was belaying somebody else up there. I guess he didn't have a tiny RP (who carries a #0 anyway?). He yelled down, "This is bullshit!" and grabbed his nut tool and bashed out the slot; now it takes slightly bigger, better pro. Mar 18, 2016
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
 
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
 
This is a really good route. Don't worry about the 5.9R section. It's straightforward and "juggy" compared to nearly all the other 5.9s in the immediate vicinity.

BETA ALERT:

The crux isn't the reach, but rather, getting to it. Two falls at this point. A nice clean ride into space! Jan 7, 2015
steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
Haha, yeah, that damn Steve Hong, wussing out and adding bolts to everything. Guess he was too weak to be up for heady and awesome. I sure hope he did something else in his climbing career to make up for this. Oct 15, 2014
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.11b
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.11b
Try it and report back. Skipping the bolt isn't too hard to do... Much harder than just talking about it though. Sep 17, 2014
choppinBolts  
 
Would be cool to climb this without the bolt, heady and awesome maybe. Sep 11, 2014
wasatch boy
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11b R
wasatch boy   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11b R
Got this one after a few TR tries and 2 lead attempts. The climbing is great, but hard to appreciate while climbing thin edges. But it's all there. Really, this route protects best with small to mid sized stoppers, maybe a cam at the top. Most cams placed would have to be small and would most likely just rip out or break the lip off the edge of the crack. Climb to the good stances and place. Nov 14, 2013
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
Agree with Tim. Bomber micronut placement right off the pillar then tricky but adequate gear throughout with good stances. The end is great, standing on a small foothold to reach way out left to a jug with the bolt a decent ways below. Fun! Not R. Jun 24, 2011
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11b
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.11b
How did this get an R rating? Lots of good gear. Great route with a totally well protected final crux Apr 16, 2011
Agreed with the "R" rating thing...It is not a REAL "R" if you have the gear dialed. It is a good idea to put it all together on TR after doing Gordon's Hangover. Then go for the redpoint send. Dec 19, 2008
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
 
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
 
First ascent was by Steve Hong, Steve Carruthers. Sometime in the late '80s Mar 30, 2008
Lizzy Scully
Lyons, Colorado
Lizzy Scully   Lyons, Colorado
Hmm, well, I think perhaps it could have R potential if you are not dialed into placing gear. It's certainly not an 11b I'd recommend to a beginning 5.11 leader. However, I did find plenty of gear placements that I more or less felt comfortable with.

I didn't feel it was height dependent. I am short. Sep 20, 2007
David Shiembob
slc, ut
  5.11b
David Shiembob   slc, ut
  5.11b
Wow, great route. Airy exposure as you're working the thin locks with 140' or so of rope out beneath you. Couldn't figure out the top moves so I blew the onsight, but I think I know what to do now, looking forward to getting back on it. There seemed to be a space where there wasn't good pro, pretty much where Ruckmans marked 5.9R on the topo, or maybe they're worried about swinging into the dihedral or something? It doesn't seem to deserve an R rating, especially by LCC standards! Classy variation, too bad you've got to miss out on the lieback flake and upper handcrack on Gordon's to do it. Sep 6, 2007
tenesmus  
 
Just did this again today and I gotta say you can sew it up really well. Super fun climbing but I don't know where its R? Scott's right about the over-beta in the description. Jun 19, 2007
OK, first of all, figuring this out is part of the challenge, excitement, and fun, so the above route description has a little too much beta in my opinion. Beta is best included in the comments sections, and even better if it has a **BETA** type warning.

But that aside, I am 5'6", and can do all of these moves. It is exciting and at times reachy, but never height dependent. Mar 12, 2007