Type: | Trad, 225 ft (68 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | Lance Bateman, Ben Folsom Nov. 2009 |
Page Views: | 2,294 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Ben Folsom on Nov 9, 2009 |
Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Pitch 1- Climb the right leaning first pitch of the Eve traverse passing a few fixed pieces. Establish an awkward hanging belay below a roof in a wide section a few feet before the fixed pin belay for Eve Traverse. Medium to large cams for the belay. C2
Pitch 2- A good and fun traverse under the roof up and left leads to a fixed hex at about 20 feet. Above this a short chimney leads to scary blocks and a long, skinny block at the lip to the left. Either squeeze through or climb over the "beaked whale" and belay on the stance just above. A mixture of cams for the belay. 5.10
(key gear placements can help keep rope from getting stuck at lip) This is a short but Wild pitch!
Pitch 3- A very short pitch just to move the belay to a better location for belaying the final pitch. Climb around the corner to the right and up a nice finger crack to a large horizontal and belay on gear. 5.10-
Pitch 4- A nice finger crack leads up and right to a rest below a small overhang. Continue over the roof to the lip of the wall. Another 20 feet of runout 5.6 up a low angle dihedral lead to the top and a belay from good cams. 5.11-
To descend we scrambled uphill along the edge of the Green Adjective Gully until we could make our way into the gully and back down to the base of the route.
This is a prominent line in the Green A gully. If anybody knows of this being ascended previously, please let me know. It is not in any Wasatch guide books, is guarded by an aid start and some very scary looking blocks as well. Other than a bomber fixed hex, with multiple slings tied around it, low on the route (just below the blocks), there was no other sign of previous passage.
Pitch 2- A good and fun traverse under the roof up and left leads to a fixed hex at about 20 feet. Above this a short chimney leads to scary blocks and a long, skinny block at the lip to the left. Either squeeze through or climb over the "beaked whale" and belay on the stance just above. A mixture of cams for the belay. 5.10
(key gear placements can help keep rope from getting stuck at lip) This is a short but Wild pitch!
Pitch 3- A very short pitch just to move the belay to a better location for belaying the final pitch. Climb around the corner to the right and up a nice finger crack to a large horizontal and belay on gear. 5.10-
Pitch 4- A nice finger crack leads up and right to a rest below a small overhang. Continue over the roof to the lip of the wall. Another 20 feet of runout 5.6 up a low angle dihedral lead to the top and a belay from good cams. 5.11-
To descend we scrambled uphill along the edge of the Green Adjective Gully until we could make our way into the gully and back down to the base of the route.
This is a prominent line in the Green A gully. If anybody knows of this being ascended previously, please let me know. It is not in any Wasatch guide books, is guarded by an aid start and some very scary looking blocks as well. Other than a bomber fixed hex, with multiple slings tied around it, low on the route (just below the blocks), there was no other sign of previous passage.
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