Type: Trad, 225 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Lance Bateman, Ben Folsom Nov. 2009
Page Views: 1,353 total · 12/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Nov 9, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Pitch 1- Climb the right leaning first pitch of the Eve traverse passing a few fixed pieces. Establish an awkward hanging belay below a roof in a wide section a few feet before the fixed pin belay for Eve Traverse. Medium to large cams for the belay. C2

Pitch 2- A good and fun traverse under the roof up and left leads to a fixed hex at about 20 feet. Above this a short chimney leads to scary blocks and a long, skinny block at the lip to the left. Either squeeze through or climb over the "beaked whale" and belay on the stance just above. A mixture of cams for the belay. 5.10
(key gear placements can help keep rope from getting stuck at lip) This is a short but Wild pitch!

Pitch 3- A very short pitch just to move the belay to a better location for belaying the final pitch. Climb around the corner to the right and up a nice finger crack to a large horizontal and belay on gear. 5.10-

Pitch 4- A nice finger crack leads up and right to a rest below a small overhang. Continue over the roof to the lip of the wall. Another 20 feet of runout 5.6 up a low angle dihedral lead to the top and a belay from good cams. 5.11-

To descend we scrambled uphill along the edge of the Green Adjective Gully until we could make our way into the gully and back down to the base of the route.

This is a prominent line in the Green A gully. If anybody knows of this being ascended previously, please let me know. It is not in any Wasatch guide books, is guarded by an aid start and some very scary looking blocks as well. Other than a bomber fixed hex, with multiple slings tied around it, low on the route (just below the blocks), there was no other sign of previous passage.

Location

Located in the Green Adjective Gully, directly across from Wheels on Fire. The First pitch is the same as pitch one of the Eve Traverse. (See Guidebook)

Protection

Two sets of cams from purple C3 size to #4 camalot. 1 each #4.5, #5 camalot. A set of stoppers.
(The #4.5 and #5 size cams probably aren't necessary but we found them useful, especially for a couple belays.)

Photos

nice work, gentlemen! s Nov 10, 2009
christ  
Good work fellas. Nov 11, 2009