Type: | Trad, 330 ft (100 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | FA: Bill Robins, Kristen Davis 1985. FFA: Bill Robins, Brian Smoot 1985 |
Page Views: | 461 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Rosemary Bloom on Jun 7, 2022 · Updates |
Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Start up a slab dihedral with nice edges protected by pins, then jam and lyback your way up the steep features into a awkward offwidth, fight the bush at the top then 2 pins and a bolt await.
P2: choose your own adventure scrambling up and through cracks and trees, either take take this pitch to a tree with a sling or up to a big green ledge.
P3: once at the green ledge cut right 20 ft past the loose blocks to a steep crack with crumbly rock and solid jams, choose your own belay at the top.
Decent: look north towards the pawn scramble 4th class terrain up to the end of the ledge system, there is a large boulder we used too wrap off of and was able to get down with a single 70M rap. Or walk over to FAT WOMEN'S MISERY to rap.
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