Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: Alex Lemieux
Page Views: 283 total · 30/month
Shared By: skiandclimb on Feb 28, 2018
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

New, mostly bolted and well protected route. Climbs the black streak to roof and finishes up arete and face. Start with a mantel past 1st bolt and follow the well protected black streak (bolts): layback up to a rest, make a committing move out right on tiny footholds and head up the technical stem box to roof. Put pro under roof and head left to a rest with pro in horizontal. Smear up the bouldery arete and finish with thin edges on face.
3 equally hard cruxes requiring a variety of techniques.

Location

Located between St. Alphonso's Pancake Breakfast and Pins, Bashies, Matches and Beer. Look for bolts heading up the black streak. Lower/rap from anchor.

Protection

8 bolts and 2 pieces of gear (.3 to #1)
Bolted anchor at top can be used to toprope.

Photos

Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.11d
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.11d
Three sections: a thin one, a really really thin one, then a really thin one. Too steep to be a slab, not enough holds to be a face route, this is the epitome of LCC thin face / smear fest.
Once you've unlocked the lower sequence of long moves expect some serious hip flexor torture in the stem box. And if that doesn't take you out the balancey upper section will certainly give you nightmares about oozing off or barn-dooring into space. Feb 28, 2018
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
I was scoping this new line today and I can't seem to spot an arete anywhere in the upper-half. You must mean the left side of the wide crack that is St. Alphonso's Pancake Breakfast? Good looking line though! Apr 22, 2018
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.11d
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.11d
Left side of the crack it is. It's not a particularly prominent arĂȘte at first but once the dihedral which houses the St. Alfonso's crack get deeper it does form a nice arĂȘte which you slap right hand. Feet stay on the slab, stepping over = dab. Apr 23, 2018
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
Climbed it! Almost 4 stars. Great find Alex! For me a .4 camalot under the roof and a red c3 in the horizontal were ideal. Reminded me of the City of Rocks. Apr 28, 2018