Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: FAA Steve Hong, Bob Rotert '85 - FAA 1 Pitch- Dan Goodwin '85
Page Views: 14,215 total · 104/month
Shared By: Scott McLeod on Oct 6, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

The Ruckman guide book has the following to say about this route, "The all time classic of the Wasatch. Steve Hong says of Fallen Arches, 'The nice thing about it is that it is long enough to give you a nice pump, and not one of these short little things that are too hard to leave the ground on!'"
Fallen Arches is an amazing left leaning crack high on the East side of Green Adjective Gully. Brilliant for many reasons, it goes through many size ranges of crack (heavy in wide fingers though), and even incorporates powerful bouldery sequences.
There are anchors under the large roof, so you can choose to stop here. There is still .12a finger crack climbing after this however, so some choose to keep going and do it all in one pitch.

Handy info:
To work this route, you can easily TR it from the first anchors, and re-clip all gear when lowering, even though it leans.
You can also back clean it while lowering as long as you leave a draw on the bolt and lower using it as a directional.

Location

The best approach is to continue up the gully past the Trinities as if going to "Wheels on Fire." About 30' before the slippery 3rd class move approaching "Wheels on Fire," you'll see a short(15') left facing corner with a fist crack behind it. Scramble up here (5.4), then traverse right on the short broken ledge. You'll reach a 4th class ramp that takes you up and left to the base of the climb.

Protection

Another bonus of this route is that it takes good gear the whole way.
Up to triples on fingers/wide fingers
Doubles in tight hands/hands
No bigger than 3 Camalot
One quick draw for upper bolt
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
 
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
 
The all-time best crack line in LCC. Not sure how this thing got a bolt on it--there's gear aplenty. Feb 5, 2011
bheller
SL UT
  5.12d
bheller   SL UT
  5.12d
I agree about gear aplenty AND that this is the best crack line in LCC. If I remember correctly, the bolt is a relic of the F.A. when the route was originally climbed as an aid line. This is conceivable to me... Its a bit of a span for the crack switch...I could see someone tapping the bolt in there to "aid" in getting to the higher crack... Anyone else wanna settle this mystery once and for all?

A friend and I always joked that it would be possible to adequately protect this using nothing but orange metolius pieces. Feb 5, 2011
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
 
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
 
Nope. There used to be a pin at that bouldery spot. The only bolts on the FFA were at the belay. Feb 5, 2011
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
The late, great Todd Skinner has the distinction of being the first American to flash 5.13 with his ascent of the first pitch Fallen Arches in 1987. He placed all of his own gear on lead. This was quite an accomplishment at the time. Feb 1, 2014