Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: Smith, Ellison, Noble '80
Page Views: 5,989 total · 25/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Jul 1, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

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Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Wheels on Fire Direct is a very good variation high up on the Wheels of Fire route. The start is the same as for Wheels on Fire. Scramble up a really slick section to gain a higher ledge. Either approach the crack directly for a little more challenge, or traverse in from the left up higher. Jam and lieback up to the big flake (crux right below the flake).

Instead of the leftward hand traverse at the flake, continue straight up the steep dihedral with a few small bulges. This climbing is quite juggy and has great jams, but is a lieback so a lead is much harder than a TR. The face smears are also quite ricey in spots.

Protection Suggest change

Standard Rack. Small cams up to a #3 Camalot. The upper section is mostly small-hand-sized.

Descent Suggest change

One 60m rope rap gets you all the way down past the slick scrambling. This is a rope stretcher, but it is very safe, and is not the 130' mentioned in the guidebook. Make sure to watch out for the rock eating cracks near the anchor.