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Routes in Green Adjective Gully

After The Fall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
All Chalk And No Action S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Badlands S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beaked Whale T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beastie Boys T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Creep Show T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dawdling Pigalottos T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Divine Intervention A2
Eve Traverse, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a C1+
Fallen Arches T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Fallen Arches Approach T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fourth and Inches T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Golden Showers T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goodro's Nightmare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gordon's Direct T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Gordon's Hangover T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Green Adjective, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hem Line T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Holy Ghost T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Last First Crack T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Looney Tunes T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Lucid Dreaming T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
MA 1 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Meat Puppets S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mother of Pearl T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Nostrum 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2
Orange Crush S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Perhaps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Perhaps Direct T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Perhaps Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pill Billy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pins, Bashies, Matches and Beer T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prepositional Phrase S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sinsemilla Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
St. Alphonso's Pancake Breakfast T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stitches T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stormy Resurrection T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stranger Than Friction S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Subordinate Claws TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surprise Ending T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
This Is Almost the Place T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Touch Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Trinity Right T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unreliable T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Wheeler Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wheels on Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wheels on Fire Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Why Me? T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Wheeler, Alred, Gilbert '78
Page Views: 10,043 total, 61/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Jul 1, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Wheels on Fire is a continuously difficult climb with good gear and can be quite strenuous. Approach up the Green A gully, looking for the obvious thin crack on the right with a giant flake up high.

Start up a really slick section of scrambling to gain a higher ledge. Either approach the crack directly for a little more challenge, or traverse in from the left up higher. Jam and lieback up to the big flake (crux right below the flake). Hand traverse left, then fire up the really cool left-facing dihedral. Keep an eye to the right for the anchors, so as not to climb right past them!

Protection

Standard Rack. I placed gear ranging from tcu size up to a #3 camalot. Passive pro works really well too.

Descent

One 60m rope rap gets you all the way down past the slick scrambling. This is a rope stretcher, but it is very safe, and is not the 130' mentioned in the guidebook. Make sure to watch out for the rock eating cracks near the anchor.
I accidentally climbed past the anchors. Ample features above for a natural anchor, a comfy ledge, and a easy downclimb climber's right to the actual anchors.

I'm bummed I missed the committing move to the face. I'll definitely not miss them next time. Nov 21, 2016
Blake Summers
Park City, Utah
 
Blake Summers   Park City, Utah
 
LOST and FOUND PM me Jun 8, 2015
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
 
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
 
I agree with Aerili on this. The direct version might be easier, too. The direct is more classic, in my opinion. Mar 28, 2015
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
For me this route felt much harder than After the Fall so I was surprised to see a lot of people up-rating AtF but maintaining the 5.9 grade here. I felt it was the reverse (WoF feeling closer to 10a or 10-). This route offered a lot of rattly fingers and flaring hand-sized pods and butt-cracks which felt really insecure at times.

The gear is not finicky to place for the most part, but in order to minimize rope drag and avoid hollow rock you have to give some thought to where, what, and how to sling...so I didn't find it to be a no-brainer.

A 70 m rope comfortably reaches all the way past the slippery chockstone on rappel. After the Fall was a great warm-up for this route and I'm glad I didn't do it in reverse, haaa. Aug 31, 2014
tim naylor  
 
great climbing and movement but seemed like it was going to fall down way back in 1998. one huge fractured flake? Jul 6, 2014
David Shiembob
slc, ut
 
David Shiembob   slc, ut
 
Fun route, a good one to do while waiting for the cooler temps, it's nice all morning in that gully... Sep 6, 2006
Nathan Fisher
  5.9
Nathan Fisher  
  5.9
The climb is right at a massive chockstone with a seep, that blocks the east side of the gully, just beyond Solo Slot, the oh so obvious easy squeeze chimney. May 24, 2006
Nathan Fisher
  5.9
Nathan Fisher  
  5.9
Another great route in an already great gully. Beside the lower section, this route sews up with medium to large nuts. Great stances to place great gear. Also, bring some runners. May 24, 2006