Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Wheeler, Alred, Gilbert '78
Page Views: 10,869 total · 62/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Jul 1, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Wheels on Fire is a continuously difficult climb with good gear and can be quite strenuous. Approach up the Green A gully, looking for the obvious thin crack on the right with a giant flake up high.

Start up a really slick section of scrambling to gain a higher ledge. Either approach the crack directly for a little more challenge, or traverse in from the left up higher. Jam and lieback up to the big flake (crux right below the flake). Hand traverse left, then fire up the really cool left-facing dihedral. Keep an eye to the right for the anchors, so as not to climb right past them!

Protection

Standard Rack. I placed gear ranging from tcu size up to a #3 camalot. Passive pro works really well too.

Descent

One 60m rope rap gets you all the way down past the slick scrambling. This is a rope stretcher, but it is very safe, and is not the 130' mentioned in the guidebook. Make sure to watch out for the rock eating cracks near the anchor.
Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.9
Nathan Fisher   St George  
  5.9
Another great route in an already great gully. Beside the lower section, this route sews up with medium to large nuts. Great stances to place great gear. Also, bring some runners. May 24, 2006
Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.9
Nathan Fisher   St George  
  5.9
The climb is right at a massive chockstone with a seep, that blocks the east side of the gully, just beyond Solo Slot, the oh so obvious easy squeeze chimney. May 24, 2006
David Shiembob
slc, ut
 
David Shiembob   slc, ut
 
Fun route, a good one to do while waiting for the cooler temps, it's nice all morning in that gully... Sep 6, 2006
tim naylor  
 
great climbing and movement but seemed like it was going to fall down way back in 1998. one huge fractured flake? Jul 6, 2014
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
For me this route felt much harder than After the Fall so I was surprised to see a lot of people up-rating AtF but maintaining the 5.9 grade here. I felt it was the reverse (WoF feeling closer to 10a or 10-). This route offered a lot of rattly fingers and flaring hand-sized pods and butt-cracks which felt really insecure at times.

The gear is not finicky to place for the most part, but in order to minimize rope drag and avoid hollow rock you have to give some thought to where, what, and how to sling...so I didn't find it to be a no-brainer.

A 70 m rope comfortably reaches all the way past the slippery chockstone on rappel. After the Fall was a great warm-up for this route and I'm glad I didn't do it in reverse, haaa. Aug 31, 2014
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
 
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
 
I agree with Aerili on this. The direct version might be easier, too. The direct is more classic, in my opinion. Mar 28, 2015
Blake Summers
Park City, Utah
 
Blake Summers   Park City, Utah
 
LOST and FOUND PM me Jun 8, 2015
I accidentally climbed past the anchors. Ample features above for a natural anchor, a comfy ledge, and a easy downclimb climber's right to the actual anchors.

I'm bummed I missed the committing move to the face. I'll definitely not miss them next time. Nov 21, 2016