Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: Wheeler, Alred, Gilbert '78
Page Views: 12,708 total · 64/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Jul 1, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


202 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Wheels on Fire is a continuously difficult climb with good gear and can be quite strenuous. Approach up the Green A gully, looking for the obvious thin crack on the right with a giant flake up high.

Start up a really slick section of scrambling to gain a higher ledge. Either approach the crack directly for a little more challenge, or traverse in from the left up higher. Jam and lieback up to the big flake (crux right below the flake). Hand traverse left, then fire up the really cool left-facing dihedral. Keep an eye to the right for the anchors, so as not to climb right past them!

Protection

Standard Rack. I placed gear ranging from tcu size up to a #3 camalot. Passive pro works really well too.

Descent

One 60m rope rap gets you all the way down past the slick scrambling. This is a rope stretcher, but it is very safe, and is not the 130' mentioned in the guidebook. Make sure to watch out for the rock eating cracks near the anchor.

Photos