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Routes in Green Adjective Gully

After The Fall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
All Chalk And No Action S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Badlands S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beaked Whale T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beastie Boys T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Creep Show T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dawdling Pigalottos T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Divine Intervention A2
Eve Traverse, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a C1+
Fallen Arches T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Fallen Arches Approach T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fourth and Inches T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Golden Showers T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goodro's Nightmare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gordon's Direct T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Gordon's Hangover T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Green Adjective, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hem Line T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Holy Ghost T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Last First Crack T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Looney Tunes T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Lucid Dreaming T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
MA 1 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Meat Puppets S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mother of Pearl T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Nostrum 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2
Orange Crush S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Perhaps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Perhaps Direct T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Perhaps Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pill Billy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pins, Bashies, Matches and Beer T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prepositional Phrase S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sinsemilla Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
St. Alphonso's Pancake Breakfast T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stitches T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stormy Resurrection T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stranger Than Friction S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Subordinate Claws TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surprise Ending T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
This Is Almost the Place T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Touch Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Trinity Right T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unreliable T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Wheeler Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wheels on Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wheels on Fire Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Why Me? T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Jamie Kanzler, Jim Edwards, Cory Andersen, and Randy Kielszewski
Page Views: 1,261 total, 14/month
Shared By: Todd Green on Sep 4, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Delicate slab moves up horizontal edges, lead to flaring shallow butt-cracks followed by a slopey chicken-head to the crux just before the roof. From there the climbing eases up a bit until another 11 slab move around the last bolt. Anchors will be up and left of the route. If you are finding the slab to be too much for your tastes you can bail to the left and finish on Victory Gardens (5.10) which will take you pretty much straight to the anchors.

Location

Upper West face just down canyon from a large chimney and Wheels on Fire, directly below Fallen Arches.

Protection

4 draws for bolts. Cams up to .75. Anchor w/ 2 bolts & chains just to the left of the route (though Ataché lockers won't fit through the links FWIW).

Photos

Aaron Livingston
Moab, UT
  5.11a
Aaron Livingston   Moab, UT
  5.11a
Why would anyone go right at the last bolt without being told to?? Jul 22, 2017
Todd Green
SLC, UT
 
Todd Green   SLC, UT
 
The 140' is from the topo in the Ruckman guide, but thinking about it, there is no way it is that long or a 70m wouldn't reach. Fixed the description. Aug 31, 2012
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.11b
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
  5.11b
littttle scary.

Btw... Not 140 feet - it's more like 85 feet, maybe. Aug 27, 2012
Pete Spri  
 
TR'd this for the first time today. Quality climb.

The last bolt seems very strangely positioned. Going straight through it would be a hard 11 or 12. If you go left you hit some grooves (to me, Victory Gardens is further Left than this, around a corner) or if you go right you could end up with perhaps a more contrived face move or 2. The bolt doesn't really set you up for where the route goes... it's sort of in no-mans land, leaving it up to you to choose.

I'd like to lead this one next time. Jun 18, 2011