Type: Trad, Aid, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FA: Brian & Jonathan Smooth '78 FFA pitch 2: Lance Bateman & Ben Folsom '93
Page Views: 397 total · 14/month
Shared By: Greg Gavin on Aug 17, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Location

Directly above Stormy Resurrection. Access via the chockstone 3rd class route that passes Wheels on Fire. Fixed lines may or may not be present. You can easily rap off a tree to get back to the bottom of Wheels so you dont have to reverse the slippery 3rd section.

Description

If you've ever climbed in the Green A I can almost guarantee you've look at this line.

The Eve Traverse climbs the obvious diagonal crack lookers right of Beastie Boys also directly above Stormy Resurrection when viewed from lower in the Green A.

Pitch 1) Begin at the lowest point of the crack system. Here you'll find a short 5th class section (5.8 or c1+) up a crack which thins as you progress upwards. Pass a fixed pin, and a bolt to gain access to the main event. Double fixed pins (manky) mark the beginning of the traverse itself. Climb the slanting (typical of lcc) splitter on thin cams and nuts to a mostly hanging belay (fixed pin, nuts, and 0.5" cams) at the junction of The Beaked Whale, and The Eve Traverse. (C1)

Pitch 2) Continue up to now perfect 0.5" splitter at either easy c1 or pumpy 5.12 fingers. Belay at 2 bolts. This pitch is probably the best finger crack I've seen in the Wasatch. (5.12a/b or C1)

Descent) One 30m rappel

Protection

Doubles to 0.75 camalot single 2 and single #3 w/ extra fingers. Offset cams helpful, but not mandatory if aiding the entire route. Peenuts, and offset DMM alloys very helpful.

Photos

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