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The Eve Traverse [Suggest Change]
5.12a/b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6a British C1+
Avg: 2 from 3
votes
Routes in Green Adjective Gully
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After The Fall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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All Chalk And No Action S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Badlands S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Beaked Whale T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Beastie Boys T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
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Black Ops T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Creep Show T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dawdling Pigalottos T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Divine Intervention A2 |
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Eve Traverse, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a C1+ |
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Fallen Arches T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Fallen Arches Approach T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Fourth and Inches T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Golden Showers T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Goodro's Nightmare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gordon's Direct T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Gordon's Hangover T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Green Adjective, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Hem Line T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Holy Ghost T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Last First Crack T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Looney Tunes T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Lucid Dreaming T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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MA 1 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Meat Puppets S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Mother of Pearl T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Nostrum 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2 |
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Orange Crush S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Perhaps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Perhaps Direct T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Perhaps Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pill Billy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pins, Bashies, Matches and Beer T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Prepositional Phrase S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Savvy T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sinsemilla Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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St. Alphonso's Pancake Breakfast T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Stitches T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Stormy Resurrection T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Stranger Than Friction S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Subordinate Claws TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Surprise Ending T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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This Is Almost the Place T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Touch Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Trinity Right T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unreliable T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Wheeler Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Wheels on Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wheels on Fire Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Why Me? T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 200 ft, 2 pitches |
| FA: | FA: Brian & Jonathan Smooth '78 FFA pitch 2: Lance Bateman & Ben Folsom '93 |
| Page Views: | 349 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Greg Gavin on Aug 17, 2016 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Location [Suggest Change]
Directly above Stormy Resurrection. Access via the chockstone 3rd class route that passes Wheels on Fire. Fixed lines may or may not be present. You can easily rap off a tree to get back to the bottom of Wheels so you dont have to reverse the slippery 3rd section.
Description [Suggest Change]
If you've ever climbed in the Green A I can almost guarantee you've look at this line.
The Eve Traverse climbs the obvious diagonal crack lookers right of Beastie Boys also directly above Stormy Resurrection when viewed from lower in the Green A.
Pitch 1) Begin at the lowest point of the crack system. Here you'll find a short 5th class section (5.8 or c1+) up a crack which thins as you progress upwards. Pass a fixed pin, and a bolt to gain access to the main event. Double fixed pins (manky) mark the beginning of the traverse itself. Climb the slanting (typical of lcc) splitter on thin cams and nuts to a mostly hanging belay (fixed pin, nuts, and 0.5" cams) at the junction of The Beaked Whale, and The Eve Traverse. (C1)
Pitch 2) Continue up to now perfect 0.5" splitter at either easy c1 or pumpy 5.12 fingers. Belay at 2 bolts. This pitch is probably the best finger crack I've seen in the Wasatch. (5.12a/b or C1)
Descent) One 30m rappel
The Eve Traverse climbs the obvious diagonal crack lookers right of Beastie Boys also directly above Stormy Resurrection when viewed from lower in the Green A.
Pitch 1) Begin at the lowest point of the crack system. Here you'll find a short 5th class section (5.8 or c1+) up a crack which thins as you progress upwards. Pass a fixed pin, and a bolt to gain access to the main event. Double fixed pins (manky) mark the beginning of the traverse itself. Climb the slanting (typical of lcc) splitter on thin cams and nuts to a mostly hanging belay (fixed pin, nuts, and 0.5" cams) at the junction of The Beaked Whale, and The Eve Traverse. (C1)
Pitch 2) Continue up to now perfect 0.5" splitter at either easy c1 or pumpy 5.12 fingers. Belay at 2 bolts. This pitch is probably the best finger crack I've seen in the Wasatch. (5.12a/b or C1)
Descent) One 30m rappel
Protection [Suggest Change]
Doubles to 0.75 camalot single 2 and single #3 w/ extra fingers. Offset cams helpful, but not mandatory if aiding the entire route. Peenuts, and offset DMM alloys very helpful.
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