The Eve Traverse
5.12a/b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6a British C1+
Type: | Trad, Aid, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | FA: Brian & Jonathan Smoot '78 FFA pitch 2: Lance Bateman & Ben Folsom '93 |
Page Views: | 1,771 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | Greg Gavin on Aug 17, 2016 · Updates |
Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Location
Directly above Stormy Resurrection. Access via the chockstone 3rd class route that passes Wheels on Fire. Fixed lines may or may not be present. You can easily rap off a tree to get back to the bottom of Wheels so you dont have to reverse the slippery 3rd section.
Description
If you've ever climbed in the Green A I can almost guarantee you've look at this line.
The Eve Traverse climbs the obvious diagonal crack lookers right of Beastie Boys also directly above Stormy Resurrection when viewed from lower in the Green A.
Pitch 1) Begin at the lowest point of the crack system. Here you'll find a short 5th class section (5.8 or c1+) up a crack which thins as you progress upwards. Pass a fixed pin, and a bolt to gain access to the main event. Double fixed pins (manky) mark the beginning of the traverse itself. Climb the slanting (typical of lcc) splitter on thin cams and nuts to a mostly hanging belay (fixed pin, nuts, and 0.5" cams) at the junction of The Beaked Whale, and The Eve Traverse. (C1)
Pitch 2) Continue up to now perfect 0.5" splitter at either easy c1 or pumpy 5.12 fingers. Belay at 2 bolts. This pitch is probably the best finger crack I've seen in the Wasatch. (5.12a/b or C1)
Descent) One 30m rappel
The Eve Traverse climbs the obvious diagonal crack lookers right of Beastie Boys also directly above Stormy Resurrection when viewed from lower in the Green A.
Pitch 1) Begin at the lowest point of the crack system. Here you'll find a short 5th class section (5.8 or c1+) up a crack which thins as you progress upwards. Pass a fixed pin, and a bolt to gain access to the main event. Double fixed pins (manky) mark the beginning of the traverse itself. Climb the slanting (typical of lcc) splitter on thin cams and nuts to a mostly hanging belay (fixed pin, nuts, and 0.5" cams) at the junction of The Beaked Whale, and The Eve Traverse. (C1)
Pitch 2) Continue up to now perfect 0.5" splitter at either easy c1 or pumpy 5.12 fingers. Belay at 2 bolts. This pitch is probably the best finger crack I've seen in the Wasatch. (5.12a/b or C1)
Descent) One 30m rappel
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