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Routes in Green Adjective Gully

After The Fall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
All Chalk And No Action S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Badlands S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beaked Whale T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beastie Boys T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Creep Show T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dawdling Pigalottos T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Divine Intervention A2
Eve Traverse, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a C1+
Fallen Arches T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Fallen Arches Approach T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fourth and Inches T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Golden Showers T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goodro's Nightmare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gordon's Direct T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Gordon's Hangover T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Green Adjective, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hem Line T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Holy Ghost T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Last First Crack T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Looney Tunes T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Lucid Dreaming T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
MA 1 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Meat Puppets S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mother of Pearl T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Nostrum 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2
Orange Crush S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Perhaps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Perhaps Direct T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Perhaps Not T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pill Billy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pins, Bashies, Matches and Beer T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prepositional Phrase S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sinsemilla Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
St. Alphonso's Pancake Breakfast T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stitches T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stormy Resurrection T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stranger Than Friction S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Subordinate Claws TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surprise Ending T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
This Is Almost the Place T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Touch Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Trinity Right T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unreliable T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Wheeler Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wheels on Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wheels on Fire Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Why Me? T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Ellison, Moffat FFA Bitter
Page Views: 7,525 total, 56/month
Shared By: Louis Arevalo on Oct 15, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This route continues up and left of the anchors of Looney Tunes through shallow rounded lie backing to small stemming between seams and finishes in a strange left facing, over hanging dihedral. It may be broken into separate pitches, but what fun would that be?

Location

This begins as Looney Tunes then heads up and left to finish about 60 feet above the Trinity Right anchors.

Protection

Many small pieces with cams up to 4".
There are a few bolts, a fixed pin and a bashy on route.
Mark D Evans
Sandy, UT
  5.11c/d
Mark D Evans   Sandy, UT
  5.11c/d
This route is stout, but I don't agree with the 12.a rating if done as one pitch. And it is definitely not harder than T-Right. Different climbing, and longer, but not harder climbing by any means. There are great rests everywhere! Also, the climbing is not really that difficult, just insecure. But the sections of intense climbing are pretty short and very well protected.

The upper dihedral is tricky, but good stemming technique makes all the difference! There is only one move without chickenhead feet.

Also, I found having 3 x BD.5/orange metolius very handy. I used 2 on looney tunes, and one on the start of MOP. Oct 29, 2014
DoubleA  
I will go +1 that this route is 12a if done in one pitch from the ground (does anyone actually pitch it out?). Considerably more difficult than Trinity Right as a total package. Oct 24, 2014
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
  5.11c
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
  5.11c
I have heard some say this one is harder than trinity right, but I disagree. MOP has a few hard liebacking sections, but 2 no hands rests keep the pump down, so it is not nearly as sustained as trinity, or other 11c's like gargoyle. There are 3 bolts and a fixed pin mixed with good gear on the lower 2/3 of the route, adding ease to the liebacking. The stemming between grassy seams sections is easy and fun, then the upper dihedral is by far the mental, gear fiddling crux. I found the sequence to be: Clip the fixed bashie, stem up and place the small nut, then punch it to a great finger lock and place the .5 camalot before lunging left for a jug sidepull, then pull over the easy juggy roof to the anchors. Don't be intimidated by its reputation. It is excellent, well protected climbing.

Gear I placed: #4 nut, doubles .3 to .75 camalot, one #3 camalot(backing up bashie), 10 QD's(it wanders). Bring more if linking it with Looney Tunes
70m gets you down no prob Oct 1, 2012
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
 
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
 
Can be done in one long pitch from the ground, making a nice long 12a. I agree -- the bolts are excessive. Feb 5, 2011
T_jones
Salt Lake
T_jones   Salt Lake
Upper dihedral protects with a small nut and then a .5 after starting the committing layback. When I climbed this I wondered if all the bolts are necessary? The last one was right next to a protectable flake. Regardless, this route is a full serving of insecure, powerful laybacks and is great the whole way up. Sep 27, 2010
CalmAdrenaline
SL,UT
  5.12-
CalmAdrenaline   SL,UT
  5.12-
The upper dihedral is HARD, I agree with Bheller, one of the hardest 11s ive been on. Jun 24, 2010
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
The book lists the grade of this route at 11c, at that it seems like one of the hardest 5.11s anywhere. Great route! Technical and insecure most of the way. As for the gear, one hand size piece, doubles up to red metolius with triples on yellow #2 metolius, tiny nut for the upper dihedral and lots of slings and draws should get you up it. Sep 8, 2008
would two sets of smaller cams be sufficient or more? Dec 29, 2007