Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,078 total · 9/month
Shared By: Zac Robinson on Jul 29, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Maybe the steepest 5.10 trad route in LCC. Head up the corner on some funky jams and jugs until you can fanangle you way into the squeeze chimney. Work your way up a bit and reach out and around to clip the bolt. Scoot back down the chimney and come out and around the last bulge.

There seems to be a "thank-god" hold or feature everywhere you want one.

Location

Up the slope from the Trinities. It is a large, very steep, face coming up from the trinities. It looks intimidating and rightfully so.
take a 0.75 camalot for the belay.

Protection

There is one bolt on the route. We used a 0.75 or a 1 camalot for the anchor lower belay. A single set of cams up to a #4 along with a new #6 would be more than enough.

The anchor up top is a small old rusty bolt with a doubtful looking hanger and a tree or 2. Bring some webbing and a knife.

Photos

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