| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 40.5741, -111.7543 |
| FA: | Drew Bedford and Seth Shaw, 1985 |
| Page Views: | 2,555 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Landon McBrayer on Jul 26, 2011 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
The route begins from the set of bolts up and right of the Looney Tunes chains (that is, the P1 anchor for what used to be Catalyst); thus, it can be linked with Looney as one long pitch.
From the chains, lieback up the leftward arching corner/seam, clipping 4 bolts along the way. A few funky moves and long reaches puts you at the last bolt below the easy finishing roof. Chains appear just above the roof at the top of the buttress.
A single rap (with a 60m) reaches the gravel base of Looney Tunes with a few feet to spare.




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